Fashion: the good, the bad, and the greenwashed

If you’re feeling overwhelmed and bewildered about what constitutes planet-friendly fashion, you’re not alone. Claire Brunette unpicks the multilayered environmental and ethical issues within the fashion industry.

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Clothing is powerful and necessary, and a handwoven burlap sack just doesn’t do it for most people these days. The right clothes can help get you the job you want, keep you safe, change how you see yourself and how others see you; they can be a source of joy.

If clothing production ceased tomorrow, there would be enough clothing in the world to keep us going for a very long time, but we keep producing more than we can use. It’s getting harder and harder to process the wall of information about clothing that is out there. What is actively environmentally harmful? What is exploiting the people making the fabric? What seems sustainable, and says it is, but shimmering below the surface has the nasty tint of greenwashing?

An oft-repeated statement is that the most sustainable piece of clothing is the item you already own, but what if that item is releasing tiny microplastics into the ocean every time you wash it? Microplastics are now found in our kaimoana, our honey, our salt and our blood. A report published by Scion in 2019 showed that 87 per cent of microplastics found on Auckland beaches were likely to be from fabric fibres released during laundering.

So how do we get dressed in the morning in a world that’s tugging us in different directions? Information is empowering, so before you buy anything, especially anything new, let’s explore fabrics. It’s important to note that no fabric is perfect and all have their own unique impact. It is still an essential tenet of sustainability to use what you have and to seek items that are already circulating.

Synthetics 

The big bads of fabric. Derived from fossil fuels and irresistibly cheap to make. Polyester, nylon, acrylic and their ilk are to be avoided whenever possible. They continue their dirty work post-production, shedding microplastic fibres into the marine environment every time they are washed. Many vegan alternatives are simply plastic. Companies are rushing to make garments out of recycled polyester, turning plastic bottles into tracksuits, but as these items are still capable of fibre shedding, it’s best to save your recycled polyester purchases for items that don’t need to be washed, such as shoes. See the box on page 64 for ways to reduce the impact of washing synthetics. 

Semi-synthetics 

Viscose, rayon and bamboo all come under the umbrella of semi-synthetic cellulose. The wood pulp, bamboo or other raw plant material is put through rigorous, chemical-intensive processes to break the fibres down into a product that can be spun and woven into fabric. The resulting fabric is biodegradable, breathable and silky on the skin, making it extremely popular with consumers.  

Unfortunately, the environmental and human cost of producing cellulose is high. According to the non-profit environmental organisation Canopy, 3.2 billion trees are cut down every year for cellulose production, up to 30 per cent of which is from ancient and endangered forests. The Changing Markets Foundation released a report in 2017 revealing that viscose factories in Indonesia, China and India were dumping highly toxic wastewater into local waterways, destroying marine life and exposing workers and local populations to harmful chemicals. Awareness around these issues has increased, and manufacturers have been making changes, so when purchasing cellulosic fabrics, look for brand names, such as EcoVero, that encourage responsible, closed-loop production. 

Flora Collingwood-Norris is an ethical, low-impact knitwear designer based in Scotland, and a champion of visible mending – a technique where repair work is deliberately made into a feature.

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Natural 

Cotton 

Soft and smooth, cotton allows air to circulate, keeps you cool in summer and is an ideal inner layer in winter. We love cotton! It also is an incredibly thirsty crop using often inefficient irrigation systems that divert water from natural sources. According to WWF,  cotton cultivation severely degrades soil quality, leading to expansion into new areas and the attendant destruction of habitat. Cotton production is heavy on pesticide use, threatening the surrounding ecology of cotton-growing areas and the people that live there. It is hard to forget the dark past of cotton production, and bonded and child slavery are still of concern today. 

GMO cotton has long been touted as an alternative and now accounts for close to 100 per cent of cotton grown in Australia. It is designed to increase both insect resistance and herbicide tolerance (so products such as glyphosate can be applied for a longer period of time) while reducing the need for water. An obviously controversial choice. 

If you want fresh cotton in your wardrobe, organic is the best choice. Check for labels with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification. GOTS is a non-profit that prohibits the use of GMO cotton while maintaining high organic, labour and welfare standards.  

Most recycled cotton comes from pre-consumer waste, scraps and excess from factories. These are shredded and woven into new fabrics, which often have a pleasing speckled appearance. There are innovations that are creating a pulp out of those scraps by dissolving them with a solvent, so it’s worth looking into how the garment you are buying is recycled, but luckily most producers have this information prominently displayed on their websites.  

Linen 

Breathable, moth-resistant and durable, linen is grown from flax (Linum usitatissimum – a different species from Phormium tenax, our native harakeke), a resilient, ancient plant that can thrive in poor soils and requires a fraction of the water that cotton does. Organic linen is even better, as nitrates and toxic dyes aren’t used in its production. GOTS certification is also available for linen. Overall, linen is an excellent choice. The con is that all this comes at a premium price. 

Wool  

Our beloved national fibre is natural, warm and biodegradable. But is it sustainable? There are currently over one billion sheep in the world. That’s far too many to be considered planet conscious, and sheep farming is resource-intensive. According to Circumfauna, who do research on the impact of animal-derived materials, more than 367 times the amount of land is required for wool than for cotton in Australia, and an Australian wool-knit sweater emits about 27 times more greenhouse gas emissions than a cotton-knit sweater. The wool industry comes with a host of issues relevant to those interested in animal welfare. If you are looking for wool, check for accredited or organic wool to mitigate concerns. It may be easier for hand knitters to trace their wool through small suppliers.  Recycled wool is often blended with polyester for durability, so beware. There is nothing like the warmth of wool, so consider looking for second-hand items to keep the chill off.   

Silk  

The fanciest fabric of all, silk biodegrades and keeps rural artisans in business in an almost zero-waste industry. Unfortunately, it’s a fussy fabric to maintain, with the care instructions usually demanding dry cleaning. Its animal welfare credentials are nil, thanks to the traditional step of boiling the silkworms alive to separate the silk from the worm. Sericulture requires very little land use but unfortunately is water-intensive. The dyeing process is where toxic chemicals can shimmy their way into production, so look for naturally dyed items. New alternatives, such as peace silk (where the silkworms aren’t killed), spider silk and silk made from fruit fibre are being developed and offer exciting possibilities for the future.  

Second time round 

Cost can be a significant barrier to accessing responsibly produced clothes for many. Making beautiful clothes in a way that takes the planet and its people into account is unavoidably expensive. Natural, organic fibres cost more than synthetic, and fair labour costs more than exploitation.  

Purchasing second-hand clothing is a lower cost option, but generally requires a larger investment in time. Op shops can sometimes be a challenging place to shop as the racks are becoming increasingly filled with the poorly constructed, synthetic-heavy clothes of recent years. There are a number of people selling second-hand clothing online, curated according to particular needs or aesthetics. However, for some people, the stigma of second-hand clothing is hard to shake. And if you are at either end of the size spectrum, finding quality second-hand clothing can be close to impossible. It’s easy to see the allure of shops that stock your size, in your style, at a price that won’t eat too far into the weekly shop.  

Hamilton-based sustainable fashion label KoiNo’s garments are made to order and range from size 8 to size 28.

Slow wins the race 

Where the sustainable industry fails, where fashion fails in general, is in providing for a plus-sized market. Amanda Matthews, owner of KoiNo, a Hamilton-based, size-inclusive, sustainable fashion label, agrees that many brands don’t see the value in extending their sizing. “Increasing a size range to include plus size is not always as simple as extending sizing by taking standard sizes and making them bigger. Often new patterns are needed, with adjustments made to make the style fit well on a bigger body.”  

To avoid this problem, and its associated costs, Amanda bases her patterns on an XL, grading up or down from there, as she finds this creates a better fit on a wider range of sizes. This isn’t the only clever model that Amanda has adopted. Her garments are made to order, essentially eliminating unsold pieces. “I don’t need to invest in making every size in every style in every colour. I only make what is needed.” 

In Aotearoa, we are lucky to have a raft of fashion designers who are eco-conscious and innovative, from I Used To Be, who make frankly adorable bags out of discarded pool toys, to the chic Kowtow, whose clothes read as a love letter to the rain-fed, fair-trade organic cotton they are made from.  

Change is coming to fashion. Technology is firmly focused on future solutions. It won’t be long until we are wearing mushroom leather and lab-grown wool. Until then, choose your clothes wisely and love them well.   


Claire Brunette is a writer, worrier and textile enthusiast who lives in Tāmaki Makaurau. 

The Gut Microbiome

8 tips for whole-body health

One of the most complex systems supporting your health isn’t your brain, heart, or even your immune system – it’s your gut microbiome.

Nutritional therapist Paula Sharp finds out why this internal ecosystem, composed of trillions of microorganisms, is hailed by scientists as key to health research.

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Your gut microbiome is the diverse community of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microbes residing primarily in your large intestine.

They are microscopic, but have an enormous collective impact. They have essential roles in digesting food, modulating inflammation, and influencing brain health.

The microbiome also builds and regulates most of our immune function.

Image: DataBase Center for Life Science, Wikimedia Commons

What is the gut microbiome?

Imagine a rainforest inside your body, teeming with life. Like any ecosystem, the gut microbiome thrives on diversity and balance. This community of microorganisms works together to help you break down fibre, extract nutrients, synthesise vitamins (such as B12 and K), and produce beneficial short-chain fatty acids.

While we tend to think of bacteria as harmful, the majority living in your gut are either beneficial or neutral. These microbes co-evolved with us and perform tasks we cannot do on our own—such as fermenting non-digestible carbohydrates or keeping pathogenic (harmful) bacteria in check.

It’s estimated that the human gut contains between 300 to 1000 different species of bacteria, with every individual having a unique microbiome signature, influenced by genetics, diet, environment, and lifestyle.

The microbiome’s role in the body

Research over the past decade has dramatically changed our understanding of the gut microbiome. Once considered a passive system, it’s now seen as an active organ in its own right, interacting with nearly every physiological process.

1. Digestion and nutrient absorption

Gut microbes help break down complex carbohydrates, such as dietary fibre, that we can’t digest on our own. The fermentation of fibre by certain bacterial strains produces short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) like acetate, propionate, and butyrate. These SCFAs are anti-inflammatory and nourish the cells lining the colon.

2. Immune system regulation

About 70% of your immune cells reside in the gut lining. A healthy microbiome helps maintain the balance between immune tolerance (not reacting to harmless substances) and defence (attacking pathogens). An imbalanced microbiome may contribute to autoimmune conditions – in which the body mistakenly attacks its own healthy cells – and chronic inflammation.

3. Gut–brain axis

The gut-brain axis describes the two-way communication between the gut and the central nervous system. Through neural, hormonal, and immunological pathways, the gut influences mental health.

Certain strains of bacteria, particularly lactobacillus and bifidobacterium produce neurotransmitters like serotonin and GABA, these improve mood and cognitive function.

Image: Jill Wellington / Pexels

However, some bacteria mimic and interfere with these neurotransmitters. E-coli, campylobacter and clostridium are some of the bacterial culprits which release inflammation causing compounds (or toxins) causing mood to dip, anxiety to increase and sleep to be compromised.

Emerging evidence even links gut health to neurodevelopmental conditions like autism spectrum disorder and degenerative diseases such as Parkinson’s disease.

What disrupts the microbiome?

Despite its resilience, the gut microbiome is highly sensitive to changes in our environment and behaviour. Modern lifestyles, particularly in industrialised nations, are often hostile to microbial diversity.

1. Dietary factors

Diets high in ultra-processed foods, added sugars, and low fibre reduce beneficial species and encourage the overgrowth of pathogenic bacteria, which are otherwise not a problem when the microbiome is balanced.

Excessive alcohol consumption and low intake of plant-based foods limit microbial diversity.

Image: Foodie Factor / Pexels

2. Medications

Antibiotics, while lifesaving, can wipe out both good and bad bacteria, potentially leading to long-term imbalance.

Medications that reduce stomach acids, NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications), and artificial sweeteners all negatively alter the gut microbiome.

3. Lifestyle stressors

Chronic stress or cortisol poisoning is felt in the gut.  The stress-hormone response increases intestinal permeability (leaky gut) and impairs microbial balance. This can show up as stress diarrhoea, nervous urination, nausea and ‘tummy ache’ in the lower abdomen. Is it just butterflies in your tummy, or compromised gut health?

Poor sleep quality disrupts the circadian rhythm of gut microbes. Sedentary behaviour has also been associated with reduced microbial diversity.

Eight ways to nurture your gut microbiome

Restoring and maintaining a healthy gut doesn’t require drastic changes. Simple, evidence-based strategies such as the following can support your microbiome’s resilience and diversity:

1. Eat a diverse range of whole foods

A variety of fibre-rich foods feeds different bacterial strains. Aim for 30+ plant types per week, including vegetables, fruits, nuts, seeds, legumes, herbs, and whole grains.

Image: Oksana S / iStock

2. Prioritise prebiotics and probiotics

Prebiotics are non-digestible fibres that act as food for beneficial bacteria. Sources include garlic, onions, leeks, asparagus and bananas.

Probiotics are live bacteria found in fermented foods like yoghurt, kefir, kimchi, sauerkraut, and miso. These can help restore microbial balance, especially after antibiotic use.

3. Minimise ultra processed foods

Artificial additives, emulsifiers, and preservatives in highly processed foods harm microbial communities and contribute to metabolic dysregulation.

Ultra processed foods look like this: instant noodles, snack chips, sugary cereals, frozen chicken nuggets, processed cheese slices, fizzy drinks and snack bars.

Many of them contain MSG (monosodium glutamate), thickeners, and phosphoric acid as additives. Taste has been enhanced with lab-produced flavourings such as ‘cheese flavour’, ‘strawberry flavour’, ‘honey flavour’. And the preservatives of choice are sulphates, sodium and/or sorbates. Food labels can feel like a minefield, but if you don’t recognise what’s on the label, it can be considered ultra processed food. 

4. Stay hydrated

Water is essential for maintaining a healthy gut lining and aiding fibre fermentation.

5. Move your body

Regular exercise has been linked to increased diversity and abundance of health-promoting bacterial strains.

6. Manage your stress

Mind-body techniques such as meditation, breathwork, or gentle movement like yoga can regulate the gut-brain axis and reduce inflammation.

Yoga on the beach (image: LucidSurf/istock)

7. Sleep consistently

A regular sleep schedule supports the natural circadian rhythms of your gut bacteria, which influence digestion and hormone production.

8. Consider supplementation carefully

While probiotic and prebiotic supplements can be helpful, they’re not one-size-fits-all. It’s best to consult a qualified health professional to tailor recommendations to your needs.

The microbiome and the future of health

We’re just scratching the surface of microbiome science. With emerging links to conditions as diverse as type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease, allergies, skin conditions, and even cancer, researchers believe the microbiome may soon be a central focus for personalised and preventive medicine.

Microbiome testing and interventions may one day guide us in choosing the best foods, therapies, or even medications based on our internal microbial profile.

The gut microbiome represents a new lens through which we can understand health, illness, and healing. It’s not about striving for perfection—but rather cultivating balance.

By eating real food, managing stress, staying hydrated, and treating your gut with respect, you can positively influence not just your digestion, but your immunity, energy levels, mood, and long-term vitality.

AUTHOR BIO: Paula Sharp is a nutritional therapist working one-to-one via Zoom to support women’s health, restore gut health and digestion, hormonal balance, skin and hair, sleep, shifting weight and health pre- and post-surgery. www.paulasharpnutrition.com
She is also a guest speaker, giving talks to companies on nutrition and mindset. In London she worked in the organic fruit and vegetable industry, and now she is based in Whakatāne, growing her own extensive spray-free garden.

SETAC Conference August 25 - 28 2025

SETAC AUSTRALASIA 2025 CONFERENCE

25 – 28 August 2025

International experts converge on Wellington for EPA-hosted conference

The upcoming Society of Environmental and Chemistry Australasia (SETAC AU) and the Australasian College of Toxicology and Risk Assessment (ACTRA) conference in Wellington this August promises to be a must-see with nine nationally and internationally recognised plenary speakers, over 130 presentations and more than 50 posters.

The theme of the conference is “Building a lasting legacy: Our choice, their future”. What legacy will our work leave for future generations? Scientists, knowledge keepers, practitioners, and end-users from diverse fields will share their research, insights and strategies, fostering collaborations for improved environmental outcomes.

The full schedule will be available on the event website soon. Early bird registrations are open until June 27th.

Moon Calendar July-August 2025

Cosmic planting calendar

By Monique Macfarlane

July and August is a great time in the garden, as we have just passed the new year, the shortest day, and the preparation and groundwork for the summer abundance is underway. Now is the perfect time to change arrangements, be it infrastructure such as trellising, pathways, irrigation, or even move around existing garden beds and create new ones.

Feel into what you would like to eat and grow in the coming months, and make the preparations now for it to flow easefully. If sometimes it all gets too much, or feels unyielding at times, choose a focus or two. It might be leafy greens and herbs, it could be the fruiting crops such as tomatoes, eggplants, chillies. Maybe try your hand at potatoes this year, or growing your own kūmara tipu. It might be increasing microbial networks, bringing in bees, or encouraging birds.

As areas of the ground are resting, various cover crops are going through their cycles, the brassicas and cold winter crops come into their own. Keep feeding the soil, and nourishing yourselves too. Feel into the flow of the body, and rest when you need it.

Pruning is a priority this time of year for the stone fruit, pip fruit, and roses. Ensure that your tools are sharp, cuts precise, and your joy and thanks is shared with the trees.

Take time to reflect in your garden. Notice how the shorter, cooler days change the world around us and within us, see what is mirrored back to you. Follow your intuition, the little hits of knowing that arrive when you are present and heart-centred, for they are your greatest allies in the natural world.

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Monique Macfarlane is a holistic food systems facilitator, teaching biodynamics, planting by the moon, no-dig food growing and self-sufficiency. See www.natural-wisdom.net 

Monique co-creates with organic, biodynamic, regenerative, no-till, and natural principles on eight hectares in Waihi that includes a small market garden, orchard, pastoral grazing, chickens and agroforestry.

Images: Arina-Ulyasheva, VeraPetruk

Strawberries – a self-sufficient crop

By Gillian Swinton 

Images and text from The Good Life by Gillian Swinton, photography by Francine Boer Photography and Gillian Swinton. Published by Allen & Unwin NZ, RRP $45.00.

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Planting strawberries in winter might sound ridiculous, but it is a great activity to do while the garden is dormant. When your strawberry plants are in the ground, you should notice runners coming off each mature plant. These runners are future strawberry plants, meaning that if you look after your plants, strawberries can become yet another self-sufficient crop.

Strawberry plants are going to remain in your garden for a few years, so consider where you’re placing them. Wherever you plant them, they will need a bit of love in the beginning to ensure they fruit in summer. I’ve chosen to plant ours in the paddock next to our garlic crops, as they make great companions. Keep in mind they will need protection from birds, so growing them in a berry house or in an area you can easily cover is key!

Hamish harvests strawberries from under the bird netting

To obtain runners, find a healthy strawberry plant and locate the running stem from the original plant. There may be a few plants on one runner, and you can take them all. Look for little roots and healthy crowns developing at the base. I trim these down and plant them in a seed-raising mix until spring when the soil temperatures rise.

You could do this in autumn or spring, but I find taking the runners in winter, then keeping them in good soil and well fed with seaweed tonic, means I can build healthy roots in time for a head start in spring.

I also build their future garden beds, ready for the runners when it gets warmer. For my strawberry bed, I:

  • fork the ground gently to get some air into the soil.
  • add compost.
  • add chicken poop — it’s acidic, which strawberries love!
  • add leaf mulch and grass clippings — grass clippings in winter are fine to add as there are no seeds. Mixing them with leaves makes a powerhouse combo.
  • add weed matting. This will protect the plant, suppress weeds and stop any fruit in summer from sitting on the ground. Many gardeners dislike using weed matting, but we use it happily for our strawberry beds. You could replace weed matting with wool or a heavy mulch of pea straw. We get some big winds in spring, so pegging down weed matting helps keep our organic materials from being blown away, as well as retaining soil moisture.
  • blow-torch holes into the matting. Melting the matting seals the holes and makes it easier for us to plant the runners.
  • add an irrigation line under the weed matting, to be hooked up in spring when the runners are planted.

When it comes time to plant in spring, get the young plants and plant in the holes in the matting. You may have to dig down through the layers, but make sure not to cover the crown (the stem where the leaves develop from) with soil. Water in with seaweed tonic and keep plants well irrigated through spring and summer.

New plants won’t yield much fruit in their first year, but they will do better in years two and three. Keep covered with netting to prevent birds (and dogs) from getting in. With some care each year, you shouldn’t have to buy strawberries or strawberry plants again!

Cover of The Good Life by Gillian Swinton


Get-well-soon soup

By Philippa Jamieson 

Any time I feel remotely unwell, I whip up a batch of this super flavourful and nourishing soup. Serves 4–6.

This is a versatile soup. You can play around with quantities depending on your taste, and use whatever veges are in season: potatoes, pumpkin, parsnip, kūmara, Jerusalem artichoke, yams, broccoli, cauliflower, mushrooms, kale, shredded cabbage.

Red lentils are quick to cook in this soup, but you could instead add cooked brown lentils, or cooked beans such as pinto or adzuki. 

For an even more Asian flavour, add some chopped Vietnamese mint while cooking, or garnish with freshly chopped coriander.

Recipe first published in Organic NZ, June/July 2018

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Ingredients 

  • 1                 large onion, finely chopped
  • 2–3             garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 T              ginger, grated
  • 1 T              soy sauce
  • 1 T              vinegar (balsamic or apple cider)
  • ¼ t              chilli (or more, to taste)
  • salt to taste
  • 1 T              coconut or olive oil
  • ½ cup         red lentils
  • 1 litre          stock or water
  • 2–3 stalks   celery
  • 1                 large carrot, sliced
  • 2 cups        kūmara, cubed
  • 2 cups        broccoli or cauliflower florets
  • 2 cups        chopped leafy greens such as kale, cabbage, spinach, silverbeet, puha or nettle
  • 1 T              miso, dissolved in ½ cup hot water
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • 2–3 T          karengo seaweed, dried

Method

  1. Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, then add the first 7 ingredients.
  2. Put the lid on, reduce heat, and let the base ingredients ‘sweat’ for 5-10 minutes.
  3. Add lentils and stock or water, and bring to a simmer.
  4. After 10 minutes, add celery and carrots.
  5. After another 5 minutes, add kūmara.
  6. Once root veges and lentils are becoming soft, add broccoli and cook a further 5 minutes.
  7. Add leafy greens and cook 5 more minutes.
  8. Turn off heat, add lemon juice and miso, and stir through.
  9. Put some karengo to each person’s bowl, then ladle in the soup.
Philippa Jamieson was editor of Organic NZ magazine (2008-2021) and is now the editor of the monthly e-news and website content.

Moon Calendar May-June 2025

Cosmic planting calendar

By Monique Macfarlane

It brings me great joy that Matariki is being celebrated in whole new ways in New Zealand – our natural new year in the southern hemisphere. In the Gregorian calendar, the ‘new year’ ticks over on an arbitrary day between ‘December’ and ‘January’. This feels incredibly out of place to me, the more I am immersed with the rhythms of the land and the cosmos. The tomatoes are ripening, the zucchini glut is here, beans, snowpeas and chillies are flourishing, all of the fruiting crops are coming to their crescendo. The garden needs my caress almost daily. At that time we are in the midst of the year, and have just surpassed the longest day.

Marking the new year in the depths of winter, timed with the new moon and Tangaroa phases, when the stars disappear and then reappear on the horizon, has an ease to it. A timeliness. An exhale, as we gather the year gone before us, those who have departed from us, and prepare for the year ahead of us. Quite rightly it moves with the land, the skies, and is a period of time, not just a day.

Matariki, or the Pleiades star cluster, isn’t the marker everywhere in New Zealand either, to mark this particular passage of time. In the north, the west, and places in the south, Puanga or Puaka is the star that marks the passage. I love this. The nuance of the environment speaking to us. Showing the way. What does your environment say to you? What do you witness?

Celebrate, reflect, honour. Take the time to be with yourself. Feast, share, come together. Enjoy the prevalence this particular rhythm is having in our lands, and the authenticity of it all.

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Monique Macfarlane is a holistic food systems facilitator, teaching biodynamics, planting by the moon, no-dig food growing and self-sufficiency. See www.natural-wisdom.net 

Monique co-creates with organic, biodynamic, regenerative, no-till, and natural principles on eight hectares in Waihi that includes a small market garden, orchard, pastoral grazing, chickens and agroforestry.

Images: Arina-Ulyasheva, VeraPetruk

Join the No-Mow movement!

Dr John Flux’s neighbour once called to see if he had died – because the grass had grown so long! The Lower Hutt ecologist is an advocate of the no-mow movement because of its many environmental benefits, and describes here how he has implemented it for the past four years in his garden and on the footpath verge.

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ABOVE: Green desert: The house with lawns as bought in 2016.

The origin of lawns

Lawns are said to derive from Marie-Antoinette’s wish to show she was rich. The habit spread to English nobility, and then everyone else. Naturalists, the early ecologists, realised how lifeless they were: W H Hudson wrote in 1919: “I am not a lover of lawns… Rather would I see daisies in their thousands, ground ivy, hawkweed, and even the hated plantain with tall stems, and dandelions… than lawn grass.”

The benefits of No-Mow

Today ecologists list many advantages of No-Mow:

  • an improved habitat for insects, and the birds reptiles, fish, and frogs that rely on them;
  • less petrol for mowing (5% of our carbon footprint);
  • increased carbon sequestration, continuing for many years;
  • reduced flooding (Cyclone Gabrielle damage was due to cut grass mud-flow, and forest trash);
  • it stays green and lowers the risk of wind-blown embers spreading fires;
  • and it saves money.

So I started to implement No-Mow in 2021 to show these advantages.

Implementing No-Mow

The first step was to ask the city mayor for permission not to mow the grass verge beside the footpath. He said to contact the environment section, who all thought it a good idea; but verges came under transport. Their only condition was clear views for motorists turning the corner, so the height limit was one metre. Check your local council rules if you want to put No-Mow in practice on your verge or berm.

The second step should be easy: just sit back and watch what happens. But Western humans are born to interfere with nature to make things ‘better’. Resist the temptation, or at least try a No-Mow patch. (Do not expect stability – in New Zealand ecological succession ends in forest, and you may prefer tussock.) I confine gardening to watering, weeding, and fertilising raised beds with compost; no sprays of any kind. We know ragwort is a dreadful weed that will spread everywhere, but it didn’t, as explained later, and monarch butterflies love the two or three plants that flower each year (as pictured in the photo at the top of this article).

Unexpected benefit: two apple crops a year

When we bought this house in 2016 it was in clear view from the gate, but today only the front door is visible. The neat brown lawn now reaches your knees and stays green. I was very surprised at the rate native trees grew once No-Mow established a complete ground cover that prevented the soil drying. They reached four to five metres in five years.

Apple trees (Sturmer, Cox’s Orange, and Russet) are pruned to two metres high, and all three produce two crops a year, summer and late autumn. Other gardeners have not reported this, so it does not seem to be a result of climate change, but pears, plums, figs, and feijoas still bear one crop a year.

Dr John Flux with a Sturmer apple tree in his No-Mow garden. The apples are ripe now (April 2025), and the second crop will be the normal time in August.

Managing the No-Mow garden

This front garden remains No Mow apart from clearing grass against the house for ventilation, and 30cm wide tracks I cut regularly with a push mower for access to prune, pick fruit, and show visitors round. These tracks are now a mix of short grass and white clover.

Most lawns are mixtures of about five grasses, e.g. brown top, fescues (chewings and creeping red), sweet vernal and turf ryegrass is a common lawn. Other species are chosen for a hard-wearing surface (playing fields) or different climates (kikuyu is frost tender). Our berm had kikuyu accidentally introduced in a load of topsoil by the original owner; it dominates that bit of No-Mow (see photo above) and is good for attracting attention – such as when a neighbour called to ask if I had died.

An experiment

On part of my lawn I set up an experiment: half was mowed, weeded, and watered, as normal. The other half has not been touched in any way since 2021 (see below). Each year the No-Mow area grasses grow about 20cm high and flower heads reach 30–50cm. Sparrows and finches enjoy the seeds until it all dies back to the green base over winter.

For the photos below, I cut the flap of grass that normally covers the orange bricks to show the thick underlay, which is ideal for delaying and filtering runoff in heavy rain. Visitors are impressed that no weeds have managed to invade this patch, despite all the dandelions growing and seeding on the mown lawn opposite. It explains why ragwort in the front garden remains an isolated clump. And I hand out copies of God, St Francis, and Lawns (google it!).

Still, problems remain. Ivy spread over a quarter acre of our previous garden, so I pick out every bit I find here. Kikuyu crawls in from the berm, under the fence and under the No-Mow plants. It is very hard to kill; I chuck it back over the fence where it came from. Muehlenbeckia australis climbs everywhere, but can be traced back and cut lower down. M. complexa is the worst, spreading at ground level in all directions looking for any plant to climb in a twisting spiral. I hope copper butterflies arrive soon to eat it, although many insects probe the tiny flowers.

ABOVE: The near side (lower part of both images) shows a normal lawn grass mix that has been cut, weeded, watered as needed.
The far side (upper part of both images) shows an identical lawn, completely untouched since 2021, and nothing has changed. Some people expect No-Mow to become wild, but after the first year nothing changes. The lawn flowers and dies back to the same level.

Bountiful biodiversity

Looking across the garden from the front gate to the steps into the house gives a typical view of half the garden. The photo below shows, from left: pale green whau (Entelea arborescens), Muehlenbeckia australis climbing on a dead tree, M. complexa, Castlepoint daisy Brachyglottis spp, pate (Schefflera digitata), Cox’s Orange apple, māpou (Myrsine australis) growing easily through cocksfoot grass with flowers two metres tall, pear, and the tall bare trunk of mountain papaya (Vasconcellea pubescens).

The grass below the trees is being shaded out, and a closed canopy will lead to a totally different ground cover. What will happen?

Ecology education

I try to get people interested in ecology – which has been taught in every school in Russia since 2001, and in China. It explains why cutting berms is now illegal throughout Scotland, and many cities in England do not allow lawns anywhere, only shrubs and meadow flowers.

China’s leader in ecological urbanism, Kongjian Yu, completed 200 ‘sponge cities’ by allowing rivers room to spread; stop-banks only make the next flood worse. Two simple rules from Barry Commoner that I find useful are: Everything is connected; and Nature knows best (The Closing Circle, 1971). To illustrate this, below is a predator circle in my garden.


ABOVE: Predators, like weeds, are never simply good or bad: even introduced wasps – they stop cabbage white caterpillars eating brassicas. Pictured from left to right are: 1) spider eating spider, 2) wasp eating spider, 3) praying mantis eating wasp. 4) spider eating praying mantis.
Dr John E C Flux was an ecologist in the Ecology Division of DSIR for 35 years, Landcare Research for two years, and NZ Ecological Research Associates for 10 years, with a special interest in hares and starlings.
NZ Ecological Research Associates was a company set up at at AgResearch’s Wallaceville campus in Upper Hutt by a group of about 30 redundant DSIR staff, from Ecology, Botany, and Soil Bureau. There were also a few members in Auckland and Nelson, and the group worked on a wide range of things -including spiders on offshore islands, heather on Mt Ruapehu, swamp plants, pest control in orchards, new highway locations, and overseeing Zealandia’s fence construction. It disbanded about 15 years ago.

Azadirachta indica - the neem tree

Neem: Nature’s healing gift to humanity

Book review by Katherine Smith

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It’s appropriate that the cover of this book features its author, Klaus Ferlow, standing beside a neem tree, his left arm reaching around to embrace its trunk in a fraternal greeting. That’s because Ferlow (originally from Germany) helped to introduce people in North America to the healing properties of the neem tree, after emigrating to Canada in 1975 and founding Ferlow Botanicals approximately 20 years later.

Klaus Ferlow credits his (now late) wife Rose with introducing him to neem by urging him to watch a TV programme called ‘What’s in a Neem’, narrated by David Suzuki. Inspired by the documentary, Ferlow obtained some neem extract and applied a neem cream to the psoriasis on his scalp and elbow and got relief from this condition in just three weeks. Having previously trained as a herbalist, he decided to set up a business to bring the benefits of neem to the North American market. Ferlow Botanicals is now rum by the Ferlows’ sons, Peter and Harald, and Ruth (Peter’s wife).

Klaus Ferlow has maintained his interest in neem and founded the organisation Neem Research “to promote neem for human, animal and environmental health”. His new book, Neem: Nature’s healing gift to humanity, includes profiles of neem researchers and entrepreneurs. He gives special credit to the late Professor Dr. Heinrich Schmutterer as ‘the father of modern neem’. It was his observation that neem trees had survived a plague of locusts that swept through Sudan when he was on a field trip there in 1959 that caused him to wonder if a natural insect repellent could be present that led to his work researching neem and writing the definitive textbook on neem, The Neem Tree (1995, 893 pages).

From the home of the neem tree in India, knowledge about the tree has spread to North and South America, the Caribbean, Africa and Australia.

Among the examples described in the book is Abaco Neem, a farm in the Bahamas that includes neem trees intercropped with fruit trees. (In all, 120 varieties of fruiting and flowering trees are grown on the farm.) Spiders and beneficial insects like butterflies and bees have thrived in this environment and hives on the farm allow neem honey to be produced as well as other neem-based health and personal care products. Some of these products incorporate beeswax from the hives. Among the products produced by Abaco Neem is a neem-based insect repellent.

ABOVE: Collection of neem seeds for the preparation of seed balls. Photo: Paryavarana Margadarsi Vaisakhi via Wikimedia Commons

The farm has organic certification and the fruit from the neem trees also has the benefit of providing food for birds; a visiting intern from France identified almost 40 different bird species on a single day.

In addition to being used to promote human health when used as a supplement or medicine, neem has the potential to boost food production. Neem extracts can be used as insecticides and ‘neem cake’ made from defatted neem seeds can be used as a fertiliser that also helps to protect plants from nematodes. The book also reports that a constituent of neem (azadirachtin) is being developed as a food additive for farmed salmon in Scotland to treat sea lice infestation of the fish.

In India, a company called Nisarga Biotech has been producing supercritical extracts of neem (using CO2 to extract constituents from the plant) which may be used as botanical pesticides, or in cosmetics or personal or medicinal products. Their product line includes a neem toothpaste and mouthwash – a modern iteration of the tradition in Indian villages of using neem twigs as a toothbrush. The company has also ‘secured a patent for the manufacture of neem leaf CO2 extract for use in treating oral and colon cancer’.

Neem: Nature’s Healing Gift to Humanity is a testament to the hard work and vision of its author and all the individuals whose businesses feature in its pages.

• Published by Neem Research, 2016, 258 pages, ISBN 9780993727504

• Available via local booksellers or from Neem Research.

About the reviewer: Katherine Smith is the co-editor of The NZ Journal of Natural Medicine, which first published this review in issue 54 (February 2025).

Photo at top: Azadirachta indica – the neem tree. Photograph by Kwameghana (Bright Kwame Ayisi) via Wikimedia Commons

Hot cross buns

By Isabel Pasch 

Enriched and decorated breads are a European Easter tradition that dates back thousands of years. Easter was the festival held at the (northern hemisphere) spring equinox in celebration of the Germanic goddess Eostre, the goddess of dawn. It was the end of the long winter fast. The Christian version was really just a takeover of this festivity.

In Europe, enriched and braided brioche breads grace Easter breakfast tables. In Britain, spiced and fruit-enriched hot cross buns became the popular national treat.

Recipe first published in Organic NZ, March/April 2021

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Freshly baked hot cross buns

Equipment needed

  • 1 baking tray or 1 approx. 24 cm square or round cake tin
  • Kitchen Aid (optional)
  • Piping bag with fine tip, or plastic freezer bag
  • 1 large mixing bowl

Ingredients (makes 10–12 hot cross buns) 

  • 750 g        strong bread flour
  • 400 ml      milk
  • 1               egg
  • 150 g        unsalted butter
  • 150 g        golden sugar
  • 1 tsp         vanilla essence or ½ scraped vanilla pod
  • 1 pinch     salt
  • 3 tsp         active dry yeast or 40 g fresh yeast

Egg glaze

  • 1               egg
  • 3 Tbsp      water
  • 1 pinch     sugar
  • 1 tsp         spice mix (as below)

Spice mix

  • 2 tsp         ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp         ground ginger
  • 1 tsp         ground nutmeg
  • 1 tsp         ground coriander
  • 1 tsp         ground allspice
  • 1 pinch     ground cloves

Dried fruit mix

  • 80 g          raisins
  • 40 g          cranberries
  • 20 g          currants
  • 20 g          dried apricots

Cross mix

  • 150 ml      milk
  • 50 g          flour

Method

  1. All ingredients should be at room temperature. Start by soaking the fruit (for 1 hour).
  2. In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the milk and add 1 Tbsp of the sugar. Add approximately 150 g flour and mix to a runny batter. Stand in a warmish place for about 30–45 min or until the mixture is bubbling and starting to rise.
  3. Add the rest of the flour, sugar, egg, vanilla, salt and spices. Roughly mix with a wooden spoon.
  4. Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and use your hands. Knead and punch the dough until all ingredients are combined and the dough is smooth. Add the butter. Now it gets a little messy again, but as the dough starts to bind the butter, it will become smooth and shiny. Mix by hand for about 10 minutes. Or, if using a kitchen aid or similar, use the dough hook and start on slow for 3 minutes, then go to fast for 3 minutes. After adding the butter, knead for another 2–3 minutes or until the butter is fully incorporated.
  5. Drain fruit mix, add to dough, and mix until evenly distributed (1 min if using a mixer).
  6. Return dough to the bowl, cover it with a teatowel and let it rise in a warm place for 60–90 min or until doubled in size. (Tip: you can do this rise overnight. Instead of letting your dough rise, place it in the fridge and take it out the next morning. It pays to reduce the amount of yeast by 1/3 for this step.)
  7. Tip the dough out of the bowl and punch it flat. Divide it into 10–12 equal portions. Roll into round buns and set at equal distance in your greased cake tin or free shape on a tray, and leave to rise for another 30–40 minutes.
  8. Preheat oven to 200ºC.
  9. Just before placing them in the oven, pipe on the cross mix with a piping bag fitted with a fine tip. Or a plastic freezer bag with one corner cut off (small hole) will work fine as a single-use piping bag.
  10. Glaze the buns around the crosses with the egg and spice mix.
  11. Immediately after placing the buns in the oven, drop the temperature to 180ºC. Bake for approximately 30–35 minutes or until golden brown on top. Let cool a little before serving.
Isabel Pasch in the kitchen of Bread and Butter Bakery, Auckland
Isabel Pasch in the kitchen of Bread and Butter Bakery, Auckland. By training a microbiologist and science journalist, Isabel is passionate about organics and ran a bakery for 14 years until 2024, baking a wide range of breads, pastries and more, using certified organic ingredients.

Living Better, Together

The Cohousing Revolution

In an increasingly disconnected world, many people are seeking ways to live more closely with both the environment and one another. For Simone Woodland, a dream to create a different way of life led to the Tākaka Cohousing project in Golden Bay. 

Hannah Schenker tells the story. 

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ABOVE: Simone Woodland and her daughter Frida

The birth of a dream 

Simone Woodland’s dream began to take shape in 2017 when she applied to become an Edmund Hillary Fellow, and travelled to New Zealand. Driven to live more harmoniously with herself, others, and the land, she discovered cohousing. Her vision became clear: she could create a supportive community for her family to live in, while regenerating the land. From this seed, Tākaka Cohousing was born.

Originally from the UK, Simone trained in architecture and urban design before becoming disheartened by the industry and shifting to social entrepreneurship. In Aotearoa, she began exploring alternative, minimalist living through her early business Tiny Lifestyle.

Her passion for community building and sustainability deepened as she transformed this into another business, Elemental Design and Build, further honing her knowledge and interest in eco-conscious, natural construction. To bring her cohousing vision to life, she drew on these experiences and co-founded Mōhua Ventures, a housing development company owned by a charity, Te Hapori Hauora Community Land Trust.

But her love of community started much earlier. “When I was a kid, my dad hosted annual street parties in our little cul-de-sac,” says Simone. “It brought all of our neighbours together around a bonfire, sharing kai and doing silly things like three-legged races. It broke down barriers and we became friendly with our neighbours. He showed me that you can create community wherever you are.”

ABOVE: Tākaka Cohousing from the air

The benefits of cohousing

Cohousing offers a refreshing alternative to traditional suburban living. The concept originated in Denmark in the early 1970s and has since spread globally. It is a community-based housing model where individuals own private homes but share common spaces and facilities. It blends personal privacy with social connection, fostering collaboration, sustainability, and a supportive environment. Residents actively contribute to decision-making and community life, creating a stronger, more connected neighbourhood.

Loneliness is a growing issue in New Zealand, exacerbated by our individualistic society. A 2018 Stats NZ survey found over 650,000 New Zealanders experienced loneliness at least some of the time in the past four weeks. (https://loneliness.org.nz/nz/facts/many-kiwis-feel-lonely/). 

Cohousing can help counteract that. Living in a close-knit neighbourhood opens up possibilities for interactions that foster personal growth, increasing the health and wellbeing of residents, promoting intergenerational connection.

Cohousing also offers environmental, social, and economic benefits. Sharing facilities reduces individual costs and space needs, while sharing green spaces means you don’t have to grow and tend everything on your own.

ABOVE: Residents meeting outside the three-bedroom duplex homes
ABOVE: Sharing a meal in the Common House

How Tākaka Cohousing works

Homes are sold at cost with individual unit titles, which banks recognise for mortgage approvals. Residents own their own home and the land directly beneath it, and a share of the common land and facilities, managed by a body corporate.

Architecture and urban planning principles are used to create a pedestrian-friendly layout, with car parking kept to the outside of the neighbourhood. The physical design promotes social interaction in “bump spaces”, allowing spontaneous interactions to occur in daily life. This means you don’t always have to pre-arrange catch-ups and cuppas and diarise everything – it happens quite naturally.

The first neighbourhood has 34 fully occupied duplex homes, with a mix of single and double-storey two- and three-bedroom layouts. Two more neighbourhoods are planned for construction in 2026 and 2027, with a similar mix of options now open for expressions of interest. 

Recipe for success

A big part of why Tākaka Cohousing has succeeded is Simone’s approach of creating a dedicated company to drive the project forward. Rather than relying on a group of peers to navigate the complexities of development – something that often leads to slow progress or burnout – she founded Mōhua Ventures, a company with the experience and knowledge needed to deliver the vision.

Through the company, she is able to maintain the momentum of the project, while being a resident herself gives her firsthand experience of what works and what can be improved as the development grows.

The project is currently entering its second phase, with two further 18-home cohousing neighbourhoods to be built on the remaining land along Meihana Street, near Tākaka township. Seven hectares of land surrounding the neighbourhoods will be regenerated into publicly accessible parkland through a community land trust.

ABOVE: A carpeted mezzanine in the Common House offers comfy lounge space for board games and movie nights.

Spotlight on sustainability

The duplexes at Tākaka Cohousing feature Terra Lana insulation made from recycled sheep’s wool, thicker walls to increase insulation, concrete floors for added thermal mass, and non-toxic paint from The Natural Paint Co. “The health of the whānau living in our homes is our top priority,” says Simone. “It’s about creating spaces that are not just energy-efficient but truly healthy to live in—warm, dry, and well-insulated.”

The Common House was built by Elemental Design and Build, guided by Graeme Scott’s passion for traditional timber framing. This off-grid natural build was crafted using untreated, non-toxic and sustainably sourced heartwood lusitanica (Cupressus lustitanica – related to macrocarpa)  for the framing, staircase, railings and balustrade, and a couple of extra-long pieces of macrocarpa heartwood for framing, all stained with Osmo natural wood stain. 

All of the wood was milled on site, keeping transport and carbon footprint to a minimum, and its natural non-toxic qualities preserve the health and wellbeing of the builders and contractors during construction, and the residents who use the space. Eucalyptus was sourced from Riwaka for flooring, skirting and architraves. Inside the walls is regular H1.2 boron-treated timber. The external weatherboards are macrocarpa (not milled on site, sourced from Totally Timber, and stained with a natural oil stain).

The walls are made using hempcrete panels, manufactured by Kohu Hemp using their own formula of hemp hurd and hydrated lime, and coated in lime plaster by Solid Earth. Hemp is a crop that enhances soil health, and grows in just three months. It creates a breathable, natural product with high insulation values. Hempcrete sequesters carbon dioxide for 50 years.

Additionally, the project acknowledges the importance of mana whenua (local iwi) as kaitiaki (guardians), integrating cultural connections into its development. Mōhua Ventures is owned by Te Hapori Hauora, Mōhua Community Land Trust – a registered charity.

Te Hapori Hauora governs the land surrounding the cohousing neighbourhoods and has a tripartite structure, with representatives from mana whenua, the cohousing neighbourhood, and the wider Mōhua (Golden Bay) community. The Trust is planning to create a publicly accessible parkland and community facilities on the land surrounding the cohousing neighbourhood, regenerating the whenua for generations to come.

ABOVE: Willing workers installing hempcrete panels

Cohousing in Aotearoa NZ

Cohousing in Aotearoa is still finding its feet, but the momentum is growing as more people realise the benefits of living in community. Pioneering projects like Earthsong (32 terrace homes and apartments in Auckland) and Toiora (21 passive homes in Dunedin) have shown what’s possible, but many other initiatives still struggle with the usual roadblocks – funding, land access, and red tape. Despite these challenges, the desire for a more connected, sustainable way of living is stronger than ever.

“We are now expanding our horizons to support other communities with their plans to create sustainable, alternative housing solutions,” Simone says. Mōhua Ventures has an experienced, professional team that can help with understanding project feasibility, project management, and community building. “We would love to hear from other communities we can support.”

Who lives here?

Residents come from diverse backgrounds and life stages. For Kirsty and Duane, the desire to explore alternative education for their two children led them to cohousing. Recognising the need for community support in their unschooling and life learning approach, they found Tākaka Cohousing to be the perfect fit. “We all live such a rich life,” says Kirsty, highlighting the benefits of a safe, supportive environment where children thrive and connect with people of all ages.

“The kids are constantly playing with their friends, are safe to walk, bike ride, and run around the neighbourhood without any worries about cars,” she says. “They’re learning and connecting with everyone all the time and have developed some amazing friendships, not just with the other children, but also other adults, while gardening or attending working bees. Their contribution is valued, and their opinion is considered.”

For some, the location is the biggest drawcard. Golden Bay is known for its beautiful landscapes bordered by two National Parks, for the sacred waters of Waikoropupū Springs, and its friendly and creative community.

“It’s the ease of access,” says resident Mazarine Fitzgerald, “to be able to connect with yourself, and nature, and the land.” For her, what makes Tākaka so special is also the “sense of community, real friendship and belonging, and all the wholesome events that happen here.” 

ABOVE: Residents Mazarine Fitzgerald (left) and Kate Burness (right)

Shared facilities and gardens

The Common House is central to community life, hosting everything from social gatherings to morning dance sessions. It offers shared laundry facilities, a meeting space, kitchen, extra storage, a bedroom for guests, and hosts monthly meetings and potluck dinners.

Gardens are another shared resource, allowing residents to grow and share produce, and reduce their reliance on external sources. “We get together for working bees, we plant, weed, and harvest food,” says Simone. “I love it because I’m learning so much about gardening. Doing it together lightens the load and benefits more than just yourselves, and the kids are growing up knowing where yummy fresh food comes from.”

Tākaka Cohousing is more than just a housing development – it’s a community that embodies the values of connection, collaboration, and environmental stewardship. For Simone and many others, it represents a new way of living that aligns with their principles and their vision for a better future. With its blend of shared resources, healthy homes, and a supportive social dynamic, Tākaka Cohousing is proving that the future doesn’t have to be a solo journey – it can be a shared experience. 

ABOVE: Sharing gardens reduces the load for all, while increasing the amount of produce to share. Residents, left to right: Phoebe Fulton, Mazarine Fitzgerald and Deb Rolston
Hannah Schenker is a freelance writer, proofreader, and team assistant at Mōhua Ventures. She’s also mama to a beautiful five-year-old, living a life rich in family and creativity.