• Link to Facebook
  • Link to Instagram
  • Link to LinkedIn
Reset member access or visit Soil & Health NZ
Organic NZ
  • Articles
    • Features
    • Gardening
    • Health and Food
    • Farming and Horticulture
    • Building and Technology
    • News
  • Competitions
  • Donate
  • Login
  • Join Us
  • Click to open the search input field Click to open the search input field Search
  • Menu Menu

Tag Archive for: home garden

Posts

Ross Vintiner of Dali Olives holding a handful of Johnson-Su compost

Organic probiotic for the soil

24 Sep 26/in Farming and Horticulture, Free Online, Magazine Articles

By Ross Vintiner


Growers worldwide are experiencing two fundamental growing challenges – high and rising input costs, and climate extremes. Species, soil, plants, crops, food supply and affordability are all threatened.

Organics is well equipped to solve and lead solutions.


This article proposes one proven method – the Johnson-Su compost system – as an example of how growers of all stripes can reduce inputs and costs, improve soil health, resilience and yield, and reduce food costs and human contributions to climate extremes.

We hope you enjoy this free article from Organic NZ.  Join us to access more, exclusive member-only content

First, a little context

Since the 1940s, agricultural fertiliser input volumes and prices have risen dramatically in real terms, whereas production per input unit has declined. More fertiliser, less crop and greater cost per input unit applied. The result: higher food prices, poorer soil, health, species, environmental outcomes, and lower grower returns.

Climate extremes will intensify with an elevated El Niño weather pattern now in place. Resilience to adapt to fast-changing climate has become the grail of agriculture. As a result, a fundamental change is occurring to how we grow.

Mainstream and even progressive agronomists have until recently put huge productive store in soil and plant nutrition through fertiliser inputs. The soil as an ecosystem was lost to industrial agriculture. Thanks to those practising the wisdom of Rudolf Steiner, founder of biodynamics, Albert Howard, father of western organics, and indigenous systems, the soil is again being viewed more widely as a living, integrated organism rather than the dead chemical medium of dirt.

The living soil

Recent pioneers have applied scientific understanding of the soil food web, the soil ecosystem, to show how microbes are more critical to soil health and productive performance than fertiliser inputs. Everything we have in our environment today comes from microbes that have cycled carbon and minerals to grow life.

Despite this, fungi, for example, are being destroyed in modern agricultural soils – lowering plant immunity, eroding soil, reducing nutrient uptake, lessening water-holding capacity, producing food of poorer quality. There is a microbial species crisis.

Below our feet are armies of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, viruses, microbes far greater in number and importance to us than the stars above. But they are under threat. It is imperative that we save soil microbes to save ourselves.

ABOVE: White fungal cap on a Johnson-Su compost

What are the best growing systems?

The Kete Ora Trust funded Plant & Food NZ to undertake a meta-analysis of world research findings to determine the best growing system to produce nutrient-dense food (read more here). Results were mixed.

Far clearer were these overwhelming findings:

  1. that organic and biodynamic growing increase microbial biomass, the total number of microbes in soil;
  2. that organics produces the highest percentage of soil organic matter (SOM), made in large part from microbes, compared to non-organic farming;
  3. and that organics often outperforms other farming systems, thanks to microbes, to help plants produce phytonutrients, vital natural protectors of plants, animals and us. Phytonutrients are antioxidants and anti-inflammatories for the body’s immunity.

Microbes play a huge role in growing soil organic matter (SOM) and the root rhizosphere, where most nutrient transfer happens between plant roots and the soil. Less than six percent of soil volume, SOM is also a key driver of soil oxygen, soil water-holding capacity (reducing the need for irrigation), beneficial soil structure (less compaction), and fertility. The more and diverse the microbes, the more carbon and the healthier and more productive SOM, soil, plant and crop. Soil plant nutrients are only a tiny fraction of total soil mass.

The Johnson-Su compost system

Enter a professor and his partner, fully aware of these points and the United Nation’s case that one third of the earth’s soils are severely degraded, largely due to modern farming practices that destroy soil microbes.

Dr David Johnson and Hui-Chun Su developed a low-cost system that brings lifeless soils back to life. This is a paradigm shift. Rather than a nutrient fertiliser, Johnson-Su compost functions as a high-biology, fungal-dominant microbial inoculant. Up to 2500 species of bacteria and 400 species of fungi can be produced. That is much greater than most composts, which are normally bacteria dominant. A full complement of soil microbe species helps a soil system function properly.

A Johnson-Su compost heap is not turned, but is aerated via vertical pipes, and matures over many months. Just a kilogram of this compost will go a long way in your garden, and can be applied either as a straight compost, compost extract ground drench or foliar spray. An easy web or YouTube search will show you how to make and use Johnson-Su compost in your garden, farm or orchard.

Think of the Johnson-Su composting method as a soil probiotic. We highly value nutritional probiotics as cultured inoculants to improve our gut microbiome. Helpful microbes control the growth of potentially harmful ones. The same principles work with Johnson-Su compost applied to the soil or plant. A small amount of the clay-like compost can be added as extract in water to power the plant’s immune system and increase its ability to grow and produce.

In the Johnson-Su method, beneficial microorganisms are reintroduced to the soil usually in the form of compost extract or seed inoculants. The extracted microbes build a diverse SOM, enable much greater plant uptake of native and introduced nutrients, improve yields, assist soil oxygen and water retention. Extract improves seed germination and growth rates, while also increasing carbon sequestration.

This is a free, open-source system. It is proven and at work in many countries around the world. It can be used in the garden and at scale, with some farms in the US, Europe and Australia applying extract to thousands of hectares. For reasons already outlined, the microbial heavy Johnson-Su compost works best organic.

It’s also an easy system. The static pile compost requires no turning. Feedstock is often free. The compost bioreactor is inexpensive to make and has no odour. There is no leaching or contamination.

Our experience in the olive grove

What I have found using this easy compost method for three years on a commercial olive grove is a 50% reduction in organic fertiliser inputs, along with high growth and yield rates, and green grazing pasture all year.

Our soil has gone from being bacterial dominant to a fungal:bacteria ratio of 4:1, equivalent to the forest floor. Trees require fungal dominant soils. Garden soils require a 1:1 ratio. All soils and roots need beneficial fungi and other microbes to function, exchanging sugar for nutrients, communicating via networks.

Our feedstock is chipped ramial (side fruiting) branches from Italian alders, with 20% leaf coverage. A range of inputs can be used, from leaves to olive and grape pomace, to wood chips, ensuring a high carbon over nitrogen ratio. The static compost pile is aerated with pipes and kept around 70% moist. Worms are added after a heating stage.

Johnson-Su is far more than compost. Please read the research. Make a batch of Johnson-Su compost this month, let it sit for nine months at least, apply and enjoy the results. You will be helping to save soil microbes.

Just when we most need to lower growing inputs and costs, and to help mitigate and build resilience against climate extremes, here is one tool to help. Organics and nature can lead not only to grow far better, but also to save species and soil, and feed us as nature intended. No GE required.


Ross Vintiner of Dali Olives

Ross Vintiner asks questions and sometimes answers come. He took a broken olive grove that now ranks in the top 100 best groves in the world, organic and biodynamic by choice. Nature’s answer.

www.daliolives.co.nz 

Text and photos: Ross Vintiner


https://organicnz.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/09/IMG-20260809-WA0001.jpg 1365 2048 membership https://organicnz.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/OrganicNZ-2024-Masthead.png membership2026-09-24 15:50:072026-09-24 15:51:41Organic probiotic for the soil
Hardening off seedlings in mid spring

Growing Vegetables: Mid spring — hardening off

28 Aug 26/in Free Online, Gardening, Magazine Articles

Growing Vegetables is a revised and updated edition of Waiuku gardener Sarah O’Neil’s book.

This accessible, user-friendly guide guides the reader through the seasons with practical gardening information about the soil, weeds, crop rotation and much more — all specific to Aotearoa New Zealand. There’s also space for your own notes and observations.

Here is an extract from the book, from the mid spring chapter, on hardening off your vege seedlings.

We hope you enjoy this free article from Organic NZ.  Join us to access more, exclusive member-only content

Extracted from Growing Vegetables: A Simple Guide for New Zealand Gardeners by Sarah O’Neil $39.99 RRP, White Cloud Books from Upstart Press

Hardening off

By now [mid spring], you should have some lovely healthy seedlings, however, don’t be tempted to plant them out — not yet. It may seem lovely and warm outside, but the thing is, it is not safe for the plants to go out yet. They need to be prepared for the big wide world.

They need to get used to the climate in your garden. It will be quite different from the cosy warmth of the greenhouse or windowsill. If you just planted them straight out from indoors into the garden they won’t like it. It is a harsh world out there. They could go into what is known as ‘transplant shock’ and slow or stop growing. They need to acclimatise. It could cause long-term damage that would result in stunted plants, a reduced harvest or in some cases, death.

Cucumbers can be particularly fussy if the weather isn’t warm enough. You have to ease them into the real world, like a reluctant swimmer getting into a cold swimming pool . . . Slowly and gently.

The process

1. About a week or two before your last frost date, in the morning take all your plants and put them outside in a warm sunny spot out of the breeze and leave them there all day and bring them in again at night.

2. The next day put them back outside and this time allow them to feel a gentle breeze through their leaves and put them away again at night.

3. Continue this each day for at least a week and ideally two weeks, gradually exposing them to the full extent of the weather they would experience in the garden.

4. Towards the end of this in-and-out routine, in a sheltered spot where they would be protected from any possible frost, leave them out overnight a couple of times.

5. Then come the date it is safe to plant them out, they will be completely acclimatised to life on the outside and will slip into the garden without even noticing too much that life has changed and will continue growing happily.

6. Watering them in with a seaweed solution can help minimise the shock and help the roots to establish in the new location.

7. I can’t say it enough: Don’t trust the weather! There is always a risk of a late frost, so just to be safe — keep one eye on the overnight forecast and keep some frost cloth handy.

This is why we grow spare seedlings, in case of disaster.

Don’t feel you have to plant your seedlings out on the last frost date. This is the ‘first’ date where it is deemed safe to plant things out — not the ‘only’ date.

If your seedlings are too small — less than about 6cm or don’t look strong enough, leave them inside for another week or so. It won’t harm them and in fact you are doing them a favour, and they will get a better start to life on the outside.

Wind — a blessing and a curse

Plants exposed to a mild wind grow stronger and thicker than those in a sheltered position as their cell walls adapt to the conditions and make the plant more resilient.

If you take a plant straight from the greenhouse or sunny windowsill and plant it in the garden, not only will it be shocked by the temperature, but it will be skinny and weak and not as prepared for life in the garden as a plant that had been hardened off properly. Although take care, if the wind is too strong it can burn the leaves and dry out the soil. You will need to use your judgement. If it is too windy while hardening off your plants, put them in a sheltered place or keep them tucked up indoors.


Soil dried out by the wind can become so dry that it actually repels water and normal watering won’t fix it. What you need to do is to immerse the whole plant in a bucket of water. Some seaweed solution will help here, too.
Float the pot and allow it to sink to the bottom in its own time, then wait until the bubbles stop coming and then a little bit longer and pull the plant out of the bucket and let it drain. You will find that the soil has rehydrated and you can carry on as normal.

Take note

What is going on in your garden?


Is the garden ready to plant into? Have you begun hardening off? What is the weather like?


Gardener Sarah O’Neil lives with her family beside the sea at Waiuku.

Find out more at her website here, where she has a blog, photos, podcasts and videos.

Text and photos: Sarah O’Neil


https://organicnz.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/08/ONLY-FOR-USE-WITH-BOOK-EXTRACT-p52-of-Growing-Vegetables-book-hardening-off-seedlings-LOWER-RES.jpg 491 655 membership https://organicnz.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/OrganicNZ-2024-Masthead.png membership2026-08-28 13:47:502026-08-28 13:47:51Growing Vegetables: Mid spring — hardening off

Categories

  • All Articles
  • News
  • Features
  • Gardening
  • Health and Food
  • Farming and Horticulture
  • Building and Technology
  • Free Online

Latest Articles

  • The Health Detective’s Handbook
  • Savoy cabbage
    When cabbage is sexy!
  • Peter Butler
    Plant fiend
  • A life of plants, food and foraging
  • Ross Vintiner of Dali Olives holding a handful of Johnson-Su compost
    Organic probiotic for the soil
  • Biochar, black gold and bananas
  • Parsley on chopping board with knife
    Parsley: More than just a garnish
  • Hardening off seedlings in mid spring
    Growing Vegetables: Mid spring — hardening off
  • Kumera slips - moon calendar 2026
    Moon Calendar September-October 2026
  • Cabbage and mulch strip-till field trial at IGZ
    Clover under cabbage reduces harvest — rye mulch keeps yields
Soil & Health Association of NZ Established 1941

Proudly published by the Soil & Health Association NZ

  • About us
  • Contact us
  • Help us
  • Sign up to the Newsletter
© Copyright OrganicNZ | Soil and Health Association NZ.
  • Link to Facebook
  • Link to Instagram
  • Link to LinkedIn
  • Privacy Policy
  • Editorial Policy
Scroll to top Scroll to top Scroll to top