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Homegrown Fruit: Pests and disease-reducing strategies

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By Kath Irvine and Jason Ross

Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide is an accessible and comprehensive guide to growing fruit trees, bushes, vines and brambles in Aotearoa New Zealand.

The authors have a wealth of experience between them, and guide readers through everything from planning a home orchard, to specific types of fruit and their requirements, to care and pruning, pest, disease and weed control, and much more.

The following is a section on strategies to reduce pests and disease, extracted with permission from Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide, by Kath Irvine and Jason Ross (K+J Books, 2025) $58 RRP

ABOVE: Cover image of Homegrown Fruit, and Jason Ross and Kath Irvine (Mickey Ross Photography)

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We’re big fans of sidestepping pests and disease – that’s why we’re so keen on well-suited varieties, and on staying in touch with our trees and keeping health humming along. Even so, pests and disease do happen! Little bits here and there are no worries, but more than that and it’s a good idea to ponder why. It’ll be a stress of some sorts – weak vigour, overfeeding, extreme weather, or because the tree isn’t planted in its happy place.

If a tree continues to get hammered every year in spite of all your love, feel free to chop it down, mulch it up, and try another variety. That in itself is an excellent pest- or disease-reducing strategy – to only grow trees that thrive easily. The younger your orchard is, the more important it is to act on the first signs of pest or disease. The more established, diverse, and healthy your orchard, the more important it is to watch and let things take their natural course. If at any point tree health starts to be compromised, step in with our solutions below.

ABOVE: Illustration by Jason Ross

Pest-reducing strategies

Before you rush in to squash or spray, find out about the bugs you see on your fruit trees and make sure they are foe. You will find most are orchard friends. It’s really useful to understand what the different phases of bug life cycles look like – both for pests and predators. The juveniles can look radically different to the adults.

5 spray-free strategies

Our goal is to manage all pest problems without sprays, to lean into the wondrous network of unseen support that’s constantly in motion in our orchards.

Predatory insects

Keep a wide variety of pests in check with a wide variety of predatory and parasitic insects: parasitic wasps, hoverflies, ladybirds, praying mantis, spiders, dragonflies, damselflies, assassin bugs, lacewings, various beetles, frogs, and even earwigs – the more the merrier! Entice them in with a spray-free, wild haven, a year-round supply of nectar and pollen, and of course, some pests to eat!

Wild birds

Birds are a quid pro quo – while you may want to protect your ripening crop from them, the rest of the time birds like wax-eyes, starlings, chaffinches, and fantails are voracious gobblers of insects.

Digital control

Squashing grubs, caterpillars, or aphids is a quick and easy solution on a young tree, a dwarf or espaliered tree, or a reachable vine. Curled or folded leaves are a sign that a grub or caterpillar lurks within – open them up to see. Dimpled leaves indicate a sucking insect is at play – flip them over to check. Webbing is another sign – poke about and be nosy! You don’t need to squash every single pest: get the bulk of them, or the ones within reach – leave a few for the predators. Keep at it during your check-ins.

Fruit and spur thinning

Thinning reduces pest numbers by removing their habitat – the cosy home that’s created where fruits touch.

Chickens and ducks

Chickens scratch up and gobble overwintering grubs and larvae. Ducks love slugs and snails, and both forage on a broad range of pests, from aphids to grasshoppers.

Two safer sprays: Neem and Bt

While it’s our goal to be spray-free, there are times when we are both very grateful to have Neem and Bt in our toolkit. Both must be ingested to work, so the only insects that come to grief are the ones sucking or chewing the foliage or fruits. Bees and predatory or pollinating insects aren’t eating foliage or fruits, so they stay out of harm’s way. Many natural insecticides, like pyrethrum, garlic, or rhubarb spray, are contact killers – they nail everything they touch. We don’t recommend them.

The key to success with Neem and Bt is to completely cover the foliage when you spray, and to follow up with a couple of repeat sprays to catch the next gen of egg hatchings. Repeat sprays are essential! Use your observations to guide you as to how many repeats you need.

SPRAYING TIPS
Spray at dawn or dusk, in dry weather. Use a fresh mixture each time – make a small batch so that you use it all. Rinse out your sprayer afterwards, especially the nozzle, and leave it open and upside-down to air out and dry.

Neem

Use for all sucking insects: aphids, woolly aphids, scale, thrips, passionvine hoppers, green vegetable bug, and cherry/pear slug (sawfly larvae).

  • Passionvine hopper adults are impervious to spray – catch them at the juvenile ‘fluffy bum’ stage. Repeat at three-day intervals. By the third spray, the population will be greatly reduced. Continue in this way until there are none left.
  • Woolly aphids are a more intense pest because they suck on both roots and tops. If there are tell-tale cottony growths around the root crown, apply Neem granules to the soil at the base of the tree in tandem with using Neem sprays

Bt

Bt is short for Bacillus thuringiensis. It’s the active ingredient in many caterpillar-specific sprays. Use it for raspberry bud moth, leaf roller caterpillar, codling moth, and guava moth.

Codling moth and guava moth get a special mention because natural predators are in short supply in NZ, and they aren’t so much a reflection of stress as they are a reflection of a neighbourhood that’s heaving with them. Success comes from doing a range of things that target different stages of their life cycles.

  • Spray with Neem + Bt together, weekly from petal fall.
  • Check over young fruits for tiny entry holes where larvae have burrowed in. There may also be frass – tiny piles of sawdust-like excrement – at these sites. Remove fruits and feed them to your chooks or drown them in a barrel of water.
  • Immature fruits that fall often contain larvae – send your pigs in or pick them up; this stops the next generation of moths emerging.
  • In winter, let chooks in to hunt overwintering larvae – wax-eyes and ground beetles also help with this. Needless to say, clean up all windfalls in case they contain larvae.
  • Prevent guava moth by covering trees with insect mesh soon after pollination, when fruitlets start to develop.

Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide, by Kath Irvine and Jason Ross (K+J Books, 2025) $58 RRP

The Floral Dream

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Olivia McCord, author of this beautiful new book, The Floral Dream, uses organic practices in her flower growing.

“My initial introduction to growing was through kiwifruit. We established a kiwifruit orchard from scratch, and it is now a fully certified organic orchard.”

This gorgeous book is bursting with colour and inspiration, as well as being a practical, comprehensive guide to growing cut flowers.

The following is extracted with permission from The Floral Dream: A Guide to Growing Cut Flowers in New Zealand by Olivia McCord (Potton & Burton) $49.99 RRP

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Sourcing plants

There are numerous ways that you can start your dream cutting garden, and it will be dictated by the way you source your plants. What will ultimately determine the way you source your plants will be your scale of operation. If you are a small home gardener it is feasible to spend a little more on a seedling as you will be planting fewer as opposed to a small scale flower farmer who will require multiple seedlings of each variety.

The key is to plan what you want to grow so you can ensure you are sourcing your plants at the right time they are available. For example dahlias, a hugely popular item, will go on pre-sale in winter when you need to secure them to ensure you don’t miss out on the varieties you were after come summer time.

Growing from seed

When I first started growing flowers I was incredibly daunted by growing from seed and believed that it was for very experienced growers only. Fast forward a few years and I now own a cut flower seed business, so it is safe to say I became a quick convert to growing from seed.

The reason I love growing from seed is the large selection of plants available (a lot of garden stores do not offer a decent cut flower range) and the inexpensive cost. The trick to growing from seeds if you are starting out is to choose annuals (perennials can be fussier) and follow the basic guidelines laid out later in this book.

You do not require fancy equipment or a greenhouse to get a range of seeds germinating.

Above: Olivia McCord

Growing from plugs

This is generally reserved for small scale flower farmers. Plugs are small seedlings of a particular variety grown in large trays. There are a number of nurseries (like Gray Floral listed in the appendix) around the country that will wholesale trays of plugs to growers. However, there are minimum quantities so this option is not feasible for home growers

Seedlings

Seedlings are fantastic as a quick way to get started as someone has done the initial work for you. They are more expensive but if you are growing a handful of plants this expense is relatively small. Just ensure you are mindful about selecting the right variety. A lot of local gardening stores sell plants in their potted colour section for pots. Therefore if you are choosing a zinnia for example you might be selecting a dwarf bedding variety that will not grow an appropriate stem for a cut flower.

There are a number of nurseries around the country starting to offer cut flower seedlings which have been noted in the back of the book.

Bulbs, tubers and corms

Bulbs, tubers and corms are a fantastic way to grow cut flowers as they are often reliable bloomers. The key is to work out what you want to plant in advance, as most spring flowering bulbs are on sale late autumn, and summer flowering bulbs are selling in winter. More information is detailed on how to grow these later in this chapter.

Cuttings and sharing

A fabulous way to grow your garden is through cuttings and sharing plants with other gardeners. I myself have taken cuttings from my neighbour’s ‘limelight’ hydrangeas and grown them on to fill my garden.

Whilst annuals can be difficult to grow in this manner, perennials lend themselves to dividing. Chrysanthemums are a wonderfully easy plant to propagate through cuttings, so join your local gardening groups and go to garden open days. They are wonderfully welcoming groups and an excellent way to grow your garden and learn valuable knowledge.

Potted plants

Potted plants, which are mature plants, are the most expensive way to add to your garden. However, it is sometimes the best option. Whilst I don’t recommend buying annuals this way, as they will only last a season, buying a potted perennial, shrub or especially trees, saves you a lot of time.

I personally like to buy most of my roses as potted plants rather than cuttings as it saves me a large amount of time and adds instant flowers.

Photos: Olivia McCord

Organic Gardening Guide by Organic NZ

Organic Gardening

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Organic Gardening is a guide published by the Soil & Health Association, is an excellent introduction to the principles and practice of organic gardening.

The book is recommended by experienced tutors and practitioners in the field of organic growing. It doesn’t tell you specifically how to grow your lettuce or tomatoes, but it does tell you about the fundamentals of organic growing, including understanding of soil, crop rotation, composting, and how to deal with pests, weeds and disease organically.

Organic Gardening booklet is currently out of print but we hope to make it available again for purchase at a future date.

The Soil & Health Association has made the booklet available for members here in digital form to assist you in your organic gardening endeavours.

The links below will take you to the sections of the Organic Gardening Guide. Each of the sections have the same links so that you can navigate onwards without having to return here.

The following content is only viewable by Soil and Health / OrganicNZ members. Why not support us by joining now so that you can enjoy all member-only content such as this?

Contents:

Worm Farming Tips

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Home gardener Michelle Coenradi has four worm farms on the go. Here she outlines the benefits, and offers some tips from her experience.

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I am passionate about my worms. There are so many benefits to worm farming, and it’s something you can do almost anywhere, even on a balcony. Worm farms produce two types of fertiliser: a liquid (sometimes called tea or juice) and a more solid one (vermicast). I leave the siphon open and sit a bucket underneath to collect the liquid.

Benefits of worm juice and vermicast

  1. Enhances soil fertility.
  2. Promotes plant growth.
  3. Deters pests and diseases.
  4. Improves soil structure – contains microorganisms and enzymes that improve soil aeration and water retention, leading to better root development.
  5. Rich in readily available nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as trace elements.
  6. Improved aeration and drainage results in reduced soil compaction
  7. Enhances the activity of beneficial microbes which are essential for nutrient cycling and overall soil health.
  8. Cost-effective fertiliser that you can make yourself.
  9. Vermicast is pH neutral.

ABOVE: Inside one of Michelle’s worm farms (Photos: Michelle Conraedi)

A healthy home for your worms

Worms need a dark, moist and well aerated environment and a temperature between 15–25ºC. You can put in shredded paper for them to live and breed in, or a worm mat which can be purchased at hardware stores.

Worms love anything curved or round to nest in and keep themselves warm, especially avocado and watermelon skins, and pumpkin is a hit as well.

What do they like to eat?

  • 70% nitrogen-rich ‘green waste’ like fruit and vege scraps, eggshells, coffee grounds and tea bags (make sure they’re compostable ones). Avoid citrus fruit and the onion family.
  • 30% carbon ‘brown waste’, like newspaper and cardboard.

You can feed them daily but I tend to feed weekly.

When I put scraps in I sprinkle Tumbleweed worm compost conditioner over the top. This keeps the pH balanced – you can tell if the worms are struggling with an alkaline imbalance because they lose their colour and start turning white. You can also use garden lime sparingly.

The vermicast is referred to as black gold, indicating its value in the garden. I find worms are hardy and easy care; you really can’t go wrong with a worm farm and they are so rewarding.

ABOVE: Michelle’s vegetable garden flourishes with the addition of vermicast and liquid from her worm farms.

More information

There is lots more information about worm farming online, such as these tips from the Compost Collective.

Photo at top: Compost Collective

Sheryl Stivens: Organic Pioneer

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Sheryl Stivens grew up on a mixed farm in Winchmore, Ashburton. Her family were fourth generation New Zealand farmers growing a variety of crops as well as breeding stud sheep. An experience when she was a young adult set her firmly on the organic path. 

Mercedes Walkham traces the life of this Soil & Health member who embodies the motto of ‘healthy soil, healthy food, healthy people’. 

Hunting and gathering

When Sheryl Stivens was 19 years old she moved to Australia, and met her husband Hal several years later in the Northern Territory. 

“In those days we were young hunters and gatherers catching abundant fish and game in the Australian outback and sleeping under the stars,” Sheryl recalls. 

“It was when we moved to Wagga Wagga (New South Wales) that Hal and I bought 30 acres of land, discovered the joys of growing your own food started to garden,” said Sheryl.

A turning point came for them with the realisation that there were no freshwater yabbies or other creatures in the billabongs on their land, due to the chemical fertilisers used to grow grain on the surrounding farms. They had both grown up with families using superphosphate and like many thought it was a “bird-poo type of product that came from Nauru Island” and never considered it to be toxic.

This realisation made them re-evaluate all their belief systems and from that moment on they vowed that they would not use anything that would poison the soil. “It became an unwritten law in our lives,” Sheryl says.

  ABOVE: Hal and Sheryl Stivens

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Author:  Mercedes Walkham is part of a collective organic garden based in Ashburton. She is pictured here with Sheryl.

Gorse in flower

Stop, look and listen to the weeds

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Paige Murray explores how we can work with weeds as organic gardeners and growers. 

Growing organically, as you well know, is not without its challenges: weeds in abundance, certain insects wreaking havoc out in the fields, not to mention the constant soil remediation and conditioning.

While these obstacles may be at times overwhelming, there are ways to manage them – and let’s be brutally honest here: if you’re taking the leap and growing without synthetic chemicals, it’s unlikely you’ll achieve completely weed- and pest-free crops. 

Yellow Admiral butterfly on Scotch thistle

  

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Paige Murray lives near Christchurch and loves any excuse to get outdoors. Passionate about organic and regenerative agriculture, she works for Quorum Sense and Streamside Organics, and spends most of her free time gardening, making cheese and preserves, or climbing up rocks.