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Loving soil, but also learning soil

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By Jenny Lux

This article was first published by Earthworkers and is republished here with their kind permission.

We hope you enjoy this free article from OrganicNZ.  Join us to access more, exclusive member-only content

I have always been a details-oriented sort of person. As a child I remember planting flowers with my Mum, learning all of their names and pressing them in a flower press. I later I revelled in learning how to identify and use the three names of all our native vascular flora (Māori, English and scientific). My first career was in plant ecology, after I did a Masters in that area looking at the relationships between soil and the regeneration of kauri forest after fire.

Moving between the details and the big picture, I became seriously concerned about climate change around the time of my late twenties. Not just mildly concerned as I had been in my youth, but in-your-face, losing-sleep, suffering-existential-fear-and-anxiety level of concern.

Of course, this had coincided with finding a husband who was a big-picture thinker and having two wonderful baby boys. I did not end up giving up at that point, but I decided that when I got back to paid work, I would be dedicating my time to a career in climate action.

Above: Richard scything grass

Growing vegetables

I moved from field-based plant ecology work to growing and selling organic vegetables, as a home-based profession that could keep me close to our kids and our food. Richard helped me establish Lux Organics, a small-scale organic market garden on the outskirts of Rotorua. He initially kept his day job as an ecologist, but then joined me full-time in the business for three years. My parents got involved, providing a generational backbone to the business.

We grew beautiful vegetables for our community, and by the time the Covid crisis and lockdowns occurred, we were able to pivot to vege boxes, bringing them to peoples’ doors with our electric van. We started hiring seasonal staff in 2020, which meant a succession of people learning the organic growing methods with us. By 2023 we had added solar panels to our shed, powering our household, vegetable chiller and van with the sun.

This has been a journey of creating a business that minimises carbon emissions while growing food. Hand tools, electric tools and hands in the soil have been our main inputs. The productivity of our soil has been the foundation of our business (as it is for all farming) and we have strived to care for it, taking soil tests each year, and learning about every aspect of soil health along the way.

Beetroot

When you grow a crop for market, and especially when you grow over 40 of them (!), there are a lot of questions and uncertainties about how to manage the soil, what might be affecting the outcomes you’re seeing, how to solve problems, and how to keep producing all through the seasons.

These veins of query are what led me to the five-day Earthworkers Regenerative Horticulture 101 course in the winter of 2021. I attended with two of my staff and I encountered a whole group of amazing people involved in different sorts of projects who were on my wavelength.

I discovered new terms which opened up my mind to the soil ecosystem in a new way. Quorum sensing, cation exchange, paramagnetism, root exudates, polycropping. I have kept in touch with the group ever since (online and in person), and this has led to multiple fertile exchanges and more farm visits, opportunities to learn and even to help others. It’s a magic human interaction!

ABOVE: Lux Organics market garden, February 2025

In recent years, with the domestic recession, business has been tough, as local people cut their organic vegetable spending. Looking at in a big picture way, it’s a manifestation of how people cannot/do not make longer-term environmental and health choices when they are poor and worried about their daily survival. Our business relies only on its connection with the local food system, rather than export.

While we experienced a huge high after the Covid crisis, when people suddenly became concerned about the sustainability of their local food supply, we are now in a phase of relentless cost-cutting. Our customer base has concentrated to only those who value food produced in a way that is free from contamination, and which looks after land.

Now that I have been working in practical agroecology on my own land for over nine years, I am curious about taking my soil knowledge deeper and broader, to have a wider impact. It’s one of those cliches… the more you learn, the more you realise you don’t know, and it becomes impossible to give simple explanations any more.

I would now never say, “ah, just use compost and everything will be fine”. There’s a lot more to growing, and to soil, than most of us really, truly understand. My curiosity burns and I want to know which levers to pull to achieve the healthiest crops and soil. Looking again to the bigger picture, how we manage soil on our productive land is the probably the most important aspect of New Zealand’s climate emissions profile.

This is why I’ve dedicated pretty much all of my market garden earnings in 2025 so far to further study and investing in my own knowledge growth.

I have taken papers at the University of Waikato in soil science and hydrological management, and I have attended specialist courses by regenerative educators (Graeme Sait from Nutri-tech Solutions, and Nicole Masters from Integrity Soils).

I am building up a research library and reaching out to soil mentors for the next step in my career. I even bought a microscope from a fellow Earthworker (thank you Coral).

All of this new learning is feeding directly into the next stage of my journey — growing my skills, confidence, and contribution through the Earthworkers community.

Over the next few months, I’ll be deepening my learning through the new Regenerative Horticulture 201 and Future Agronomists courses, working directly with Daniel Schuurman as we develop and pilot both programmes. My goal is to grow my capacity as a biology-first regenerative agronomist — someone who can read the soil, guide other growers, and support the shift toward biology-led farming across Aotearoa.

In 2024 I mentored for For the Love of Bees on their year-long Communities of Regenerative Learning programme, which opened a new path for me as a mentor within the sector. That experience, and my continued involvement supporting new growers through the post course Earthworkers WhatsApp network, has shown me how powerful it is when we stay connected — helping one another, sharing knowledge, and learning together every day out in the field.

I look forward to doing Regenerative Horticulture 201 in 2026 and keeping up my active learning and practice. Growing in soil is a bit like general life… you can’t follow one set recipe. Things keep moving and changing, and you have to be observant, responsive and kind.

Jenny Lux is a former chair of the Soil & Health Association. Find Lux Organics online here.

Earthworkers has launched

The natural evolution of For the Love of Bees, Earthworkers has a new hub to support biology-first regenerative horticulture in Aotearoa.

After a year of development they have launched a brand new website, and a full learning pathway.

Enrolments are now open for 2026:

  • The foundation course Hort 101 (Feb 23–27, Motueka/Ngātīmoti) 
  • The advanced course Hort 201 (13–17 April, Palmerston North, in partnership with Live2Give)

Both courses come with post-course support via a WhatsApp chat network to help growers transition to resilient, profitable, biology-first regenerative systems.

Earthworkers’ first alumni blog, Cultivating Knowledge Together, features Jenny Lux— an experienced grower and organic advocate who will be one of the first participants in our new Hort 201 and Future Agronomists programmes, designed to grow New Zealand’s next generation of biology-first agronomists.

Explore the pathway: earthworkers.org

Earthworkers courses in 2026

Peace lilies

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By Tammy Huynh

Images and text from The Plant Book by Tammy Huynh, photography by Chris Chen. Murdoch Books RRP $49.99.

Peace lily p. 234, Spathiphyllum wallisii

ABOVE: Cover image of The Plant Book, and author Tammy Huynh

Care
Low maintenance
Pet friendly
No
Light
Bright, indirect light

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Part of the Araceae family, the peace lily is a favourite among indoor plant enthusiasts. It’s celebrated for its easy-care nature, attractive glossy leaves, and distinctive white flowers. Because it’s so adaptable, it’s a popular choice for shopping centres, offices and homes, and it makes an ideal gift for beginner plant parents.

The flower of the peace lily is actually a spathe – a unique structure that consists of a modified leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers called the spadix. While the spathe is typically white in the peace lily, it comes in various colours among other members of the Araceae family. You’ll find the traditional green-leaved peace lily in most nurseries and garden centres, but the variegated forms can be harder to find. They’re worth the hunt, however, especially if you want something a little more special.

The peace lily grows into a large clump, giving the plant a full, bushy appearance. It may get too big for its pot; if this happens, then repot it into a larger container or trough. Alternatively, divide the clump every few years and pot up the divisions. Although it’s rare to hear of someone killing a peace lily, many people still encounter issues with it.

Understanding its natural habitat can help to address these problems. The peace lily is native to humid forest floors in tropical Central and South America, where it thrives in dappled light and consistent humidity. While you don’t need to give it a greenhouse environment, there are ways to ensure that it looks its best.

All the dirt on the peace lily

Light

The peace lily thrives in bright, indirect light. It can tolerate lower light levels, but it will grow more slowly and won’t flower.

Potting mix

Use a premium potting mix. Fertiliser Liquid feed regularly during the warmer months, or apply a controlled-release fertiliser at the beginning of spring, reapplying as directed.

Water

Water when the top 2.5–5 centimetres (1–2 inches) of potting mix is dry. Ensure that the water runs through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. The leaves will droop quite dramatically if the potting mix becomes too dry – avoid reaching this point because it puts the plant under unnecessary stress.

Humidity

The peace lily is generally happy with the standard level of humidity found in most homes. However, if it’s positioned near windows, in draughty areas or close to climate-control devices (such as fans and heaters), the humidity will be lower than it prefers. Browning at the leaf tips typically indicates low humidity. For ways to boost indoor humidity, see page 26.

Choice cultivars of the peace lily

Spathiphyllum ‘Sensation’

Often referred to as the giant peace lily, this beauty is known for its large leaves and impressive spathes. It’s a true statement plant that makes an ideal floor specimen … but elevate it on a short plant stand for even more impact.

Variegated peace lilies

Spathiphyllum ‘Picasso’ (pictured) features broad, white brushstrokes painted across its leaves, while Spathiphyllum ‘Domino’ displays a more subtle stippled effect, as if it has been touched by a delicate hand.

Growing tips

Obtain more peace lilies

The best way to get more peace lilies is to divide your plant! As the plant grows, it naturally forms clumps of new shoots; these clumps can be separated to create new plants. Dividing is best done in spring or summer when the plant is actively growing, giving it the best chance to establish quickly.

To divide your plant, remove it from the pot. Tickle or brush away the potting mix to loosen the roots. Smaller plants or clumps may naturally separate from the mother plant. If they don’t, then identify the clumps and ensure that each one has healthy stems, leaves and roots. Use your hands to gently pry the clumps apart. A sharp knife or pair of secateurs may help.

Replant each clump into its own pot filled with a well-drained potting mix, ensuring that the base of the plant is at the same depth as before. Water in well with a diluted seaweed solution, which helps to promote root growth and reduce transplant shock. Place the pots in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.

Common problems of the peace lily

Browning of leaves

Brown leaf tips.

Cause

This typically indicates low humidity. It may be the result of draughts or exposure to hot or cool air, which can dry out the air around the plant and lead to water loss from the leaves faster than it can be replenished.

Solution

Position the plant away from open windows or doors to avoid exposure to draughts. Also, keep it away from heating or cooling vents. To maintain consistent moisture, consider placing a shallow tray of water near the plant to increase humidity.

Drooping leaves

Symptom

Leaves have wilted significantly, appearing limp and droopy.

Cause

Underwatering, overwatering or hydrophobic potting mix.

Solution

If the plant is underwatered, then the potting mix will feel completely dry. Give the plant a good soak, ensuring that the water runs through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. The plant should recover over the next couple of days (if it doesn’t, then this may be an indication that the potting mix has become hydrophobic – see below for the solution). Continue with a more regular watering routine to prevent future issues.

If the plant is overwatered, then the potting mix will feel evenly wet or soggy. Allow the potting mix to nearly dry before watering again, and check if you need to move the plant to a brighter spot or if the pot has sufficient drainage holes. If roots are obstructing the drainage holes, then the plant needs to be repotted into a larger container. If your pot has a saucer, then avoid letting the plant sit in water for any length of time because this can lead to root rot.

If the plant is severely overwatered, then it may be best to remove the plant from its pot, prune away any dead, dying or mushy roots, and repot into fresh potting mix. Over time, potting mixes can become hydrophobic (water repellent), so despite your watering efforts, the water isn’t being absorbed into the potting mix.

You can rehydrate the potting mix by submerging the entire pot in a bucket of water for 30 minutes, using a brick or similar heavy item to keep it under the surface. Alternatively, use a wetting agent, which is available at most nurseries, to help rewet the mix. The plant should recover over the next few days.

The Plant Book, by Tammy Huynh

Small, sweet, and mighty 

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Nourishing new potatoes

Nutritional therapist Paula Sharp enthuses about the nutrition and flavour of the humble potato when in its seasonal ‘new’ incarnation, and shares a delicious potato salad recipe.

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There’s something joyful about the arrival of new potatoes. Their appearance marks the shift into early summer — that moment when gardens start to speed up, days stretch out, and meals feel lighter, fresher, and closer to the earth. In New Zealand, new potatoes sit in a special place in our food culture: early‐season, delicate, full of flavour, and a perfect fit for our festive tables. 

From an organic perspective, they’re a beautiful example of how nutrient density, flavour, and sustainable farming intersect. Grown without synthetic fertilisers or pesticides, organic new potatoes offer us a clean, wholesome staple that supports soil health, biodiversity, and local growers, while delivering exceptional nutrition on the plate. 

What makes a potato new? 

‘New’ potatoes are planted and harvested earlier than main-crop potatoes, usually from late October through to early January, depending on region and soil warmth.

Rather than being cured like storage potatoes, they come straight to market with paper-thin skins and a moisture-rich interior. This is why they cook quickly, hold their shape well in salads, and have that signature creamy, subtly sweet flavour. 

Their fragile skins are more than just a culinary bonus; they retain more vitamins and minerals compared with older, stored potatoes. Their freshness window is short, so in season matters. 

New potatoes are more than an ingredient, in my opinion, they’re a story of soil, sustainability, and nourishment.

As we move into the festive season and the height of our growing year, they invite us to slow down, eat seasonally, and reconnect with the land beneath our food. 

Photo: Potato foliage, by Anik Hasan, Pexels

Growing new potatoes in early summer 

Across the Bay of Plenty, Pukekohe, Northland, Hawke’s Bay, North Otago and other temperate climates, new potatoes thrive in warm soils with good drainage and plenty of organic matter.

Planting happens from late winter through mid-spring. Early varieties mature quickly, often ready within 60 to 90 days. Some of the common varieties are Jersey Benne, Cliffs Kidney, Rocket and Swift. 

Mulching, companion planting, and natural pest management are key in organic systems. Many organic growers use biological controls, beneficial insects, and proper spacing to reduce disease and improve airflow. The result is a nutrient-dense crop produced in a way that enhances, rather than extracts from, the land. 

Why organic matters for potatoes 

Potatoes are among the crops most commonly treated with fungicides, herbicides, and sprout inhibitors in conventional systems.

Choosing organic means you’re supporting growers who prioritise soil structure, microbial health, and ecosystem balance, and it reduces your exposure to these chemicals. Organic potatoes come from systems where soil nutrition is built naturally through compost, cover crops, and crop rotation. This richer soil profile contributes to higher micronutrient content and superior flavour. 

Photo: sbj04769 | Pixabay

Higher in nutrition

While potatoes are often lumped into the ‘carb’ category, new potatoes offer considerably more. Because they’re so fresh, they retain a higher proportion of: 

  • Vitamin C – supports immunity, skin repair, and iron absorption. 
  • Potassium – crucial for heart function, nerve signalling, and maintaining healthy blood pressure. 
  • B vitamins – especially B6, essential for hormonal balance, mood regulation, and metabolism. 
  • Dietary fibre (especially when the skin is left on) – helps with digestion, blood sugar steadiness, and gut microbiome resilience. 

New potatoes naturally contain resistant starch, a type of fibre that feeds beneficial gut bacteria and supports metabolic health. Interestingly, resistant starch levels increase when potatoes are cooked and cooled — making new potatoes ideal for summer salads and picnic dishes. 

In the kitchen: versatile, quick, and festive

With New Zealand’s cherry season lasting only a few weeks, from mid-December into early January, savouring them New potatoes shine when their skins are left on. A simple steam or boil is often enough. Toss with herbs, lemon, good olive oil, or cultured cream for an instant seasonal dish. 

They’re also ideal for festive cooking, Christmas tables, barbecues, shared platters, and light summer lunches. Their ability to hold shape without becoming floury makes them perfect for salads.

Creamy new potato salad

with edamame, herbs & lemon 

Photo: Paula Sharp

Ingredients

  • 1 kg new potatoes 
  • 1 cup shelled edamame beans (frozen) 
  • 3 spring onions, finely sliced 
  • ¼ cup fresh dill, chopped 
  • ¼ cup parsley, chopped 

Dressing

  • ½ cup whole-egg mayonnaise (or vegan mayo) 
  • 2 Tbsp Greek or coconut yoghurt 
  • zest of 1 lemon 
  • Juice of ½ lemon 
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard 
  • Sea salt and cracked pepper to taste 

Method

  1. Boil potatoes whole until just tender. Drain and cool slightly.
  2. In a bowl, add frozen edamame beans, cover with boiling water, cover with a lid for approximately 3 minutes.
  3. Slice cooled potatoes into halves or quarters (keep the skin on).
  4. In a large bowl, add potatoes, edamame, spring onions, dill, and parsley. 
  5. Whisk dressing ingredients together. Pour over salad and gently fold to combine.
  6. Refrigerate 30 minutes before serving. 

AUTHOR BIO

Paula Sharp is a nutritional therapist supporting women’s health, digestion, hormones, skin, sleep, and energy through one-to-one consultations via Zoom. She’s also a local guest speaker in the Bay of Plenty and regular writer for Organic NZ.

Join Paula’s free newsletter – Sharp Bite – for weekly nutrition tips, seasonal recipes, and mindset inspiration.

Photo at top of article: Alexei_other | Pixabay

Homegrown Fruit: Pests and disease-reducing strategies

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By Kath Irvine and Jason Ross

Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide is an accessible and comprehensive guide to growing fruit trees, bushes, vines and brambles in Aotearoa New Zealand.

The authors have a wealth of experience between them, and guide readers through everything from planning a home orchard, to specific types of fruit and their requirements, to care and pruning, pest, disease and weed control, and much more.

The following is a section on strategies to reduce pests and disease, extracted with permission from Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide, by Kath Irvine and Jason Ross (K+J Books, 2025) $58 RRP

ABOVE: Cover image of Homegrown Fruit, and Jason Ross and Kath Irvine (Mickey Ross Photography)

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We’re big fans of sidestepping pests and disease – that’s why we’re so keen on well-suited varieties, and on staying in touch with our trees and keeping health humming along. Even so, pests and disease do happen! Little bits here and there are no worries, but more than that and it’s a good idea to ponder why. It’ll be a stress of some sorts – weak vigour, overfeeding, extreme weather, or because the tree isn’t planted in its happy place.

If a tree continues to get hammered every year in spite of all your love, feel free to chop it down, mulch it up, and try another variety. That in itself is an excellent pest- or disease-reducing strategy – to only grow trees that thrive easily. The younger your orchard is, the more important it is to act on the first signs of pest or disease. The more established, diverse, and healthy your orchard, the more important it is to watch and let things take their natural course. If at any point tree health starts to be compromised, step in with our solutions below.

ABOVE: Illustration by Jason Ross

Pest-reducing strategies

Before you rush in to squash or spray, find out about the bugs you see on your fruit trees and make sure they are foe. You will find most are orchard friends. It’s really useful to understand what the different phases of bug life cycles look like – both for pests and predators. The juveniles can look radically different to the adults.

5 spray-free strategies

Our goal is to manage all pest problems without sprays, to lean into the wondrous network of unseen support that’s constantly in motion in our orchards.

Predatory insects

Keep a wide variety of pests in check with a wide variety of predatory and parasitic insects: parasitic wasps, hoverflies, ladybirds, praying mantis, spiders, dragonflies, damselflies, assassin bugs, lacewings, various beetles, frogs, and even earwigs – the more the merrier! Entice them in with a spray-free, wild haven, a year-round supply of nectar and pollen, and of course, some pests to eat!

Wild birds

Birds are a quid pro quo – while you may want to protect your ripening crop from them, the rest of the time birds like wax-eyes, starlings, chaffinches, and fantails are voracious gobblers of insects.

Digital control

Squashing grubs, caterpillars, or aphids is a quick and easy solution on a young tree, a dwarf or espaliered tree, or a reachable vine. Curled or folded leaves are a sign that a grub or caterpillar lurks within – open them up to see. Dimpled leaves indicate a sucking insect is at play – flip them over to check. Webbing is another sign – poke about and be nosy! You don’t need to squash every single pest: get the bulk of them, or the ones within reach – leave a few for the predators. Keep at it during your check-ins.

Fruit and spur thinning

Thinning reduces pest numbers by removing their habitat – the cosy home that’s created where fruits touch.

Chickens and ducks

Chickens scratch up and gobble overwintering grubs and larvae. Ducks love slugs and snails, and both forage on a broad range of pests, from aphids to grasshoppers.

Two safer sprays: Neem and Bt

While it’s our goal to be spray-free, there are times when we are both very grateful to have Neem and Bt in our toolkit. Both must be ingested to work, so the only insects that come to grief are the ones sucking or chewing the foliage or fruits. Bees and predatory or pollinating insects aren’t eating foliage or fruits, so they stay out of harm’s way. Many natural insecticides, like pyrethrum, garlic, or rhubarb spray, are contact killers – they nail everything they touch. We don’t recommend them.

The key to success with Neem and Bt is to completely cover the foliage when you spray, and to follow up with a couple of repeat sprays to catch the next gen of egg hatchings. Repeat sprays are essential! Use your observations to guide you as to how many repeats you need.

SPRAYING TIPS
Spray at dawn or dusk, in dry weather. Use a fresh mixture each time – make a small batch so that you use it all. Rinse out your sprayer afterwards, especially the nozzle, and leave it open and upside-down to air out and dry.

Neem

Use for all sucking insects: aphids, woolly aphids, scale, thrips, passionvine hoppers, green vegetable bug, and cherry/pear slug (sawfly larvae).

  • Passionvine hopper adults are impervious to spray – catch them at the juvenile ‘fluffy bum’ stage. Repeat at three-day intervals. By the third spray, the population will be greatly reduced. Continue in this way until there are none left.
  • Woolly aphids are a more intense pest because they suck on both roots and tops. If there are tell-tale cottony growths around the root crown, apply Neem granules to the soil at the base of the tree in tandem with using Neem sprays

Bt

Bt is short for Bacillus thuringiensis. It’s the active ingredient in many caterpillar-specific sprays. Use it for raspberry bud moth, leaf roller caterpillar, codling moth, and guava moth.

Codling moth and guava moth get a special mention because natural predators are in short supply in NZ, and they aren’t so much a reflection of stress as they are a reflection of a neighbourhood that’s heaving with them. Success comes from doing a range of things that target different stages of their life cycles.

  • Spray with Neem + Bt together, weekly from petal fall.
  • Check over young fruits for tiny entry holes where larvae have burrowed in. There may also be frass – tiny piles of sawdust-like excrement – at these sites. Remove fruits and feed them to your chooks or drown them in a barrel of water.
  • Immature fruits that fall often contain larvae – send your pigs in or pick them up; this stops the next generation of moths emerging.
  • In winter, let chooks in to hunt overwintering larvae – wax-eyes and ground beetles also help with this. Needless to say, clean up all windfalls in case they contain larvae.
  • Prevent guava moth by covering trees with insect mesh soon after pollination, when fruitlets start to develop.

Homegrown Fruit: A practical guide, by Kath Irvine and Jason Ross (K+J Books, 2025) $58 RRP

Basket of cherries

Cherries on top

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A nutritional powerhouse wrapped in summer sweetness

There’s a moment each summer in New Zealand when the fruit bowls shift – apples and pears take a step back, and cherries step into the spotlight. Their glossy skins, deep ruby tones, and tart sweetness signal summer days. For growers, cherries are a labour of love. For eaters – especially those who value organic, seasonal produce – they’re a small but mighty gift from the orchard, and one of the most nutrient-dense fruits of the season.

Nutritional therapist Paula Sharp shares her nutritional knowledge and two delicious recipes.

We hope you enjoy this free article from OrganicNZ.  Join us to access more, exclusive member-only content

The New Zealand cherry landscape

Cherries thrive where winters are cold, summers are dry, and the soil drains freely – in my mind making Central Otago the undisputed cherry heartland of New Zealand. The region’s sharp seasonal contrasts enhance flavour development, producing cherries that are firm, intensely sweet, and wonderfully aromatic.

Smaller organic orchards in Hawke’s Bay, Canterbury and Marlborough also contribute to the national harvest, though cherries remain one of the more climate-sensitive crops. A single late frost or a burst of heavy rain near harvesting can have consequences for the whole orchard. This vulnerability is part of what makes cherries precious – and why many organic growers invest heavily in soil health, biodiversity, and regenerative practices to increase resilience.

A nutritional deep dive

While they may be small, cherries offer a remarkably wide spectrum of nutrients and plant compounds. Their benefits go far beyond their sweetness:

1. Anthocyanins: Plant Power

The deep red-purple pigments in cherries come from anthocyanins – a group of antioxidants linked with reduced inflammation, improved circulation, and even enhanced brain health. These compounds help protect the fruit from UV stress and heat, and offer similar protective benefits in the human body.

Anthocyanins can also support cardiovascular health by improving blood vessel elasticity and lowering oxidative stress.

2. Natural melatonin for better sleep

Cherries, particularly tart varieties, contain natural melatonin – the hormone that helps regulate sleep-wake cycles. While New Zealand grows mostly sweet cherries, these still contain small but meaningful amounts of melatonin alongside tryptophan and serotonin precursors. For those who struggle with disrupted summer sleep, incorporating cherries into afternoon snacks or evening desserts can be delicious and supportive.

Photo: Hasmik Ghazaryan Olson, Unsplash

3. Joint and muscle support

Organic cherries contain polyphenols that may help reduce exercise-induced muscle soreness and support joint comfort. This is particularly relevant in summer when people are more active (and gardening intensely.)

4. Vitamin C and collagen support

A single cup of fresh cherries delivers a generous dose of vitamin C, which is essential for immune health and collagen production. This supports skin vitality, ideal in summer.

5. Gut health benefits

Cherries contain soluble and insoluble fibre, supporting healthy digestion and stable blood sugar levels. Their polyphenols also act as prebiotics, feeding beneficial gut bacteria. For those eating more meaty barbecues, fast food, or rich festive meals, this gentle fibre boost can be a digestively welcome.

The organic advantage

Organic cherry orchards often prioritise biodiversity, soil biology, compost-based nutrition, and minimal intervention. The result? Fruit that may contain slightly higher levels of certain antioxidants. Organic growing also avoids synthetic pesticides, reducing the chemical load on both the environment and humans; this is significant for cherries as they are eaten whole, skin-on, and often in generous handfuls.

Make the most of the short season

With New Zealand’s cherry season lasting only a few weeks, from mid-December into early January, savouring them becomes a practice in seasonal appreciation.

  • Buying: Look for taut skin, deep colour and bright stems.
  • Storing: Keep unwashed in the fridge to maximise freshness.
  • Eating: Enjoy fresh, bake into summer desserts, pit and freeze for smoothies, or simmer into compotes for yoghurt and porridge.

Cherries highlight how good nutrition isn’t just about nutrients, it’s also about flavour, freshness, and eating in step with the seasons.

Great varieties for home growers

If you’re planting your own cherry tree, especially in regions with few frosts or higher humidity, these varieties offer the best blend of productivity, flavour, and lower maintenance:

  • Stella: The classic home-garden choice. Self-fertile, productive, and forgiving. Good-sized fruit with excellent sweetness and a reliable crop most years.
  • Lapins: Great for gardeners who want larger fruit and strong disease resistance. Also self-fertile, which simplifies orchard planning. Handles variable weather better than many other cultivars.
  • Sweetheart: Perfect for those who want cherries later in the season. Upright growth makes it easier to manage in smaller gardens, and fruit holds well on the tree.
  • Compact or Dwarf Varieties: Increasingly available in New Zealand nurseries, and ideal for urban gardens or smaller spaces. Look for dwarf forms of Stella or Lapins where offered.

Seasonal cherry recipes

Here are two easy ways to enjoy fresh cherries in season.

Fresh cherry, rocket & almond salad  

A bright, summery salad, perfect for Christmas hosting.

Serves: 4 | Prep time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 cups fresh cherries, pitted and halved
  • 3 large handfuls rocket (or mixed baby greens)
  • ½ cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted
  • 80g soft goat cheese or feta, crumbled
  • 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
  • A handful of fresh mint leaves, torn

Dressing

  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar (or cherry vinegar if you have it)
  • 1 tsp runny honey
  • Pinch of sea salt and cracked pepper

Method

  1. Whisk dressing ingredients together.
  2. In a serving bowl, layer rocket, cherries, onion, almonds and mint. 
  3. Drizzle with dressing and gently toss.
  4. Top with goat’s cheese and serve immediately.

Photo: Conger Design, Pixabay

Warm spiced cherry compote

Fabulous with yoghurt, porridge, pancakes or as a dessert topping. This compote freezes well.

Serves: 4 | Prep time: 5 minutes | Cook time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

  • 3 cups fresh (or frozen) cherries, pitted
  • 2 tbsp water
  • 1 tbsp maple syrup or honey (optional)
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp lemon zest
  • Small pinch of ground cloves (optional – very Christmassy)

Method

  1. Add cherries and water to a small saucepan.  Bring to a gentle simmer. 
  2. Stir in maple syrup/honey, cinnamon, vanilla, lemon zest and cloves. 
  3. Continue to simmer until cherries soften and release their juices (approximately 8-10 minutes).
  4. Serve warm or cold. Refrigerate for up to four days.

Photo: Marcie Bidou, Flavor the Moments

AUTHOR BIO

Paula Sharp is a nutritional therapist supporting women’s health, digestion, hormones, skin, sleep, and energy through one-to-one consultations via Zoom. She’s also a local guest speaker in the Bay of Plenty and regular writer for Organic NZ.

Join Paula’s free newsletter – Sharp Bite – for weekly nutrition tips, seasonal recipes, and mindset inspiration.

Photo at top of article: Oliver Hale, Unsplash

Strawberries: Sweet, sustainable, and full of summer joy

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Few fruits capture the feeling of summer like strawberries. Their vibrant red colour, delicate fragrance, and juicy sweetness make them one of our favourite seasonal fruits. In New Zealand, the strawberry season runs from September to April, with the peak harvest in November and December, filling gardens and markets with the scent of sunshine.

Beyond their taste and beauty, strawberries have a rich history, impressive nutrition profile, and are easy to grow, as nutritional therapist Paula Sharp writes.

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A brief history of strawberries

The Romans enjoyed strawberries as food and medicine, using them to calm inflammation and aid digestion. By the Middle Ages in Europe, they had become a symbol of purity and perfection – carved into churches and served at banquets.The modern strawberry, Fragaria × ananassa, has its roots in eighteenth century France, where two wild species – the small, flavourful North American Fragaria virginiana and the larger Chilean Fragaria chiloensis – accidentally cross-pollinated. The result was the plump, fragrant berry we know today.

Early European settlers brought strawberries to New Zealand, where the climate and soil suited them beautifully. Today, areas like Waikato, Auckland, and the Bay of Plenty are famous for their fields of the fruit, yet nothing compares to growing your own and tasting the sweetness straight from the plant.

Why grow spray-free or organic?

Strawberries are one of the most heavily sprayed crops worldwide. Their thin skin and low-growing habit make them vulnerable to pests and fungal diseases, but chemicals aren’t the only – or best – solution. Growing your own spray-free or organically means your berries are free from synthetic residues, and you’re supporting soil health, pollinators, and biodiversity.

Healthy soil grows healthier plants — and better-tasting fruit. Strawberries grown naturally have a more intense aroma, deeper flavour, and higher nutrient levels than their conventionally farmed counterparts.

How to grow strawberries naturally

Strawberries thrive in full sun and free-draining soil rich in compost. They do well in raised beds, containers, or hanging baskets — perfect for small gardens or patios.

The best time to plant strawberries in Aotearoa New Zealand is from late autumn through early spring, when the soil is still workable but not too cold.

In warmer regions like Auckland, Bay of Plenty, and Northland, ideally plant May to July so the young plants can establish roots before flowering. In cooler areas like Canterbury and Otago, plant a little later, July to October, once frosts ease.

Photo: Katharina N, Pixabay

Growing tips

  • Enrich the soil: Mix in well-rotted compost before planting.
  • Mulch: Use straw, pine needles, or pea straw to keep fruit clean and weeds down.
  • Eggshells: Crushed eggshells deter slugs and snails while adding calcium to the soil.
  • Feed regularly: Water fortnightly with liquid seaweed or compost tea for strong growth.
  • Netting: Protect fruit from birds using fine mesh secured tightly to avoid trapping wildlife.
  • Remove the first flowers after planting to help the plants focus on root growth and strength (for bigger, sweeter berries later in the season.).
  • Renew plants: Replace every three years using healthy runners for new stock.
  • Harvest strawberries when fully red and fragrant (typically begins from November to February, in milder regions fruit can continue into April).
  • Strawberries won’t ripen further once picked.

Nutrition that shines

One cup of strawberries gives your full daily vitamin C needs – excellent for immune support and collagen production. They’re also rich in antioxidants like anthocyanins, which protect against inflammation, and ellagic acid, known for its skin and heart health benefits.

Their natural sweetness satisfies sugar cravings while supporting blood sugar balance thanks to fibre and water content. Folate, manganese, and potassium round out their nutrient profile, helping energy and mood stay steady through the warmer months.

Eat them fresh, blend them into smoothies, toss into salads, or make into compotes and desserts – strawberries are as versatile as they are delicious.

A fruit worth growing

Homegrown strawberries are one of life’s simple pleasures. I call them nature’s lollies – sweet, sun-warmed, and full of vitality.

By choosing to grow spray-free or organic, you’re nourishing your body and caring for the land. Each bite is a reminder that good food, good soil, and good health are deeply connected.

Seasonal strawberry recipes

Here are two easy ways to enjoy fresh strawberries in season.

Strawberry & basil balsamic salad  

Light and fragrant. Serves 2–3.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups fresh strawberries, halved
  • 1 small ball mozzarella (about 100 g), torn
  • 1 handful basil leaves
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp balsamic vinegar or glaze
  • Pinch of sea salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Arrange strawberries, mozzarella, and basil on a platter.
  2. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
  3. Season lightly and serve immediately.

Photo: May Zhu, Pinterest

Strawberry chia breakfast pots

A light make-ahead breakfast or snack. Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup fresh strawberries, chopped
  • 1 cup milk of choice (almond, oat or dairy)
  • 3 tbsp chia seeds
  • 1 tsp maple syrup or honey
  • ½ tsp vanilla extract

Optional: Greek yoghurt and extra strawberries for topping

Method

  1. Blend half the strawberries with milk, sweetener, and vanilla.
  2. Stir in chia seeds and remaining strawberries.
  3. Pour into two jars, stir after 10 minutes, then refrigerate overnight.
  4. Top with yoghurt and extra berries before serving.

Photo: Freepik

AUTHOR BIO

Paula Sharp is a nutritional therapist supporting women’s health, digestion, hormones, skin, sleep, and energy through one-to-one consultations via Zoom. She’s also a local guest speaker in the Bay of Plenty and regular writer for Organic NZ.

Join Paula’s free newsletter – Sharp Bite – for weekly nutrition tips, seasonal recipes, and mindset inspiration.

Photo at top of article: Oliver Hale, Unsplash

The Floral Dream

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Olivia McCord, author of this beautiful new book, The Floral Dream, uses organic practices in her flower growing.

“My initial introduction to growing was through kiwifruit. We established a kiwifruit orchard from scratch, and it is now a fully certified organic orchard.”

This gorgeous book is bursting with colour and inspiration, as well as being a practical, comprehensive guide to growing cut flowers.

The following is extracted with permission from The Floral Dream: A Guide to Growing Cut Flowers in New Zealand by Olivia McCord (Potton & Burton) $49.99 RRP

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Sourcing plants

There are numerous ways that you can start your dream cutting garden, and it will be dictated by the way you source your plants. What will ultimately determine the way you source your plants will be your scale of operation. If you are a small home gardener it is feasible to spend a little more on a seedling as you will be planting fewer as opposed to a small scale flower farmer who will require multiple seedlings of each variety.

The key is to plan what you want to grow so you can ensure you are sourcing your plants at the right time they are available. For example dahlias, a hugely popular item, will go on pre-sale in winter when you need to secure them to ensure you don’t miss out on the varieties you were after come summer time.

Growing from seed

When I first started growing flowers I was incredibly daunted by growing from seed and believed that it was for very experienced growers only. Fast forward a few years and I now own a cut flower seed business, so it is safe to say I became a quick convert to growing from seed.

The reason I love growing from seed is the large selection of plants available (a lot of garden stores do not offer a decent cut flower range) and the inexpensive cost. The trick to growing from seeds if you are starting out is to choose annuals (perennials can be fussier) and follow the basic guidelines laid out later in this book.

You do not require fancy equipment or a greenhouse to get a range of seeds germinating.

Above: Olivia McCord

Growing from plugs

This is generally reserved for small scale flower farmers. Plugs are small seedlings of a particular variety grown in large trays. There are a number of nurseries (like Gray Floral listed in the appendix) around the country that will wholesale trays of plugs to growers. However, there are minimum quantities so this option is not feasible for home growers

Seedlings

Seedlings are fantastic as a quick way to get started as someone has done the initial work for you. They are more expensive but if you are growing a handful of plants this expense is relatively small. Just ensure you are mindful about selecting the right variety. A lot of local gardening stores sell plants in their potted colour section for pots. Therefore if you are choosing a zinnia for example you might be selecting a dwarf bedding variety that will not grow an appropriate stem for a cut flower.

There are a number of nurseries around the country starting to offer cut flower seedlings which have been noted in the back of the book.

Bulbs, tubers and corms

Bulbs, tubers and corms are a fantastic way to grow cut flowers as they are often reliable bloomers. The key is to work out what you want to plant in advance, as most spring flowering bulbs are on sale late autumn, and summer flowering bulbs are selling in winter. More information is detailed on how to grow these later in this chapter.

Cuttings and sharing

A fabulous way to grow your garden is through cuttings and sharing plants with other gardeners. I myself have taken cuttings from my neighbour’s ‘limelight’ hydrangeas and grown them on to fill my garden.

Whilst annuals can be difficult to grow in this manner, perennials lend themselves to dividing. Chrysanthemums are a wonderfully easy plant to propagate through cuttings, so join your local gardening groups and go to garden open days. They are wonderfully welcoming groups and an excellent way to grow your garden and learn valuable knowledge.

Potted plants

Potted plants, which are mature plants, are the most expensive way to add to your garden. However, it is sometimes the best option. Whilst I don’t recommend buying annuals this way, as they will only last a season, buying a potted perennial, shrub or especially trees, saves you a lot of time.

I personally like to buy most of my roses as potted plants rather than cuttings as it saves me a large amount of time and adds instant flowers.

Photos: Olivia McCord

Asparagus in season: From garden to table

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Few vegetables announce spring quite like asparagus. With its tender green spears and delicate flavour, asparagus is one of New Zealand’s most celebrated seasonal treasures.

Nutritional therapist Paula Sharp introduces this spring star, including gardening tips, recipes and nutritional benefits.

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A brief history

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) has been enjoyed for thousands of years. Native to the Mediterranean, it was prized by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans for its flavour and medicinal properties. The Romans were so fond of it that they had an ‘asparagus fleet’ to quickly transport the spears to distant outposts.

By the sixteenth century it had spread across Europe, and later to the New World. Today, asparagus is enjoyed globally, with New Zealand growers producing some of the freshest and most flavourful asparagus in the Southern Hemisphere.

Harvested from September to December, asparagus thrives in regions such as Waikato, Canterbury, and Hawke’s Bay, where sandy soils and long sunshine hours provide the perfect growing conditions.

Nutritional benefits

This slender spear is as nourishing as it is delicious. Asparagus is low in calories but high in vitamins A, C, E, and K, as well as folate – vital for energy and cell repair.

It’s rich in antioxidants that help protect the body from free-radical damage and contains prebiotic fibre, which supports healthy digestion and feeds the beneficial bacteria in your gut.

Its natural diuretic properties make it light and cleansing, ideal for a springtime reset.

Gardening tips for organic growers

Asparagus is a perennial crop – once established, it can produce for 15–20 years. It requires patience, but the rewards are worth it. Planting time is from mid September on, as the soil temperatures rise.

  • Site and soil: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with free-draining, sandy soil. Asparagus dislikes wet feet. Work in plenty of compost and organic matter before planting.
  • Planting: Start with crowns (one-year-old roots). Plant them in trenches 20cm deep, spreading the roots out like a starfish, and cover lightly with soil. Gradually fill in the trench as shoots appear.
  • Spacing: Allow 40cm between plants and one metre between rows – asparagus needs room to spread.
  • Patience pays: Don’t harvest for the first two years, allowing plants to establish strong root systems. From year three, you can harvest spears for about six weeks each spring.
  • Organic care: Mulch well to keep weeds down and moisture in. Feed annually with compost or seaweed. In winter, after the ferny foliage dies back, cut it down and top-dress with organic matter.
  • Growing your own asparagus is an investment, but once it’s in, you’ll be rewarded with tender, chemical-free spears every spring.

Photo: AnRo0002 / Wikimedia Commons

ABOVE: Asparagus spears, if not harvested, will grow into a ferny plant, and later in the season produce red berries.

Images: Kohei Tanaka / Pixabay and Nennieinszweidrei / Pixabay

DID YOU KNOW?
Purple asparagus is grown in New Zealand too – it’s sweeter and higher in antioxidants than the green variety. (Aphrodisiac history: In nineteenth-century France, grooms were served three courses of asparagus before their wedding night!)
Storage tip: Trim hard ends and then stand the asparagus spears upright in a glass with 2–3cm of water in the fridge.  Cover loosely with a plastic bag. It can stay crisp for up to 5 days.

Images: Timolina / Freepik and Michaela St / Pexels)

Cooking with asparagus

Asparagus is wonderfully versatile. It can be steamed, roasted, grilled, stir-fried, or even shaved raw into salads. Its delicate flavour pairs beautifully with lemon, mint, eggs, seafood, and olive oil. Quick cooking helps retain its vibrant green colour and crisp texture.

Quick cooking: Overcooking dulls colour and flavour. Just a few minutes is enough to bring out its best.

A simple preparation trick: hold a spear at both ends and bend gently – it will naturally snap at the point where the woody end begins. Save those woody ends for stock.

Why eat in season?

It simply tastes better.  Choosing local, seasonal asparagus ensures maximum flavour, nutrition, and freshness. By buying asparagus from your local grower or farmers’ market between September and December, you’re supporting sustainable farming while enjoying one of nature’s finest spring offerings.

Asparagus is more than just a seasonal vegetable – it tastes like spring! It is a nutrient-rich powerhouse vegetable, and a very rewarding plant for gardeners. Whether roasted with garlic or tossed in a zesty salad, asparagus brings vitality to the plate and reminds us that the best food is seasonal, local, and grown with care.

Asparagus recipes

Here are two easy ways to enjoy fresh asparagus in season.

Lemon & garlic roasted asparagus

Serves 4. Simple, fresh, and perfect as a side.

Ingredients

  • 500g fresh asparagus spears
  • 2 tbsp coconut oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • Juice and zest of ½ a lemon
  • ¼ tsp sea salt
  • ¼ tsp cracked black pepper
  • 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C (fan bake).
  2. Add coconut oil to a baking tray and heat (until liquid)
  3. Trim asparagus and arrange on the tray, add garlic, and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Toss gently.
  5. Roast for 12–15 minutes until just tender.
  6. Finish with lemon juice, zest, and Parmesan if desired.

Image: Alleksana / Pexels

Asparagus, Feta and Mint Salad

Serves 4.

Ingredients

  • 400g fresh asparagus spears
  • 100g baby spinach leaves
  • 80g feta cheese, crumbled
  • ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, torn
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tsp honey
  • ¼ tsp sea salt
  • ¼ tsp cracked black pepper

Method

  1. Trim asparagus ends off and save for stock.
  2. Blanch the spears in boiling water for 2 minutes.
  3. Refresh in iced water, drain, and cut into 3–4cm pieces.
  4. In a large bowl, combine spinach, asparagus, feta, and mint.
  5. To make the dressing, put the last five ingredients in a jar and shake.
  6. Pour dressing over salad, and toss gently.

AUTHOR BIO: Paula Sharp is a qualified nutritional therapist dedicated to helping women feel their best through every stage of life.

She works one-to-one via Zoom with clients around the world, supporting women’s health in areas such as gut and digestive repair, hormonal balance, skin and hair vitality, restorative sleep, sustainable weight management, and recovery before and after surgery.

Alongside her private practice, Paula is a guest speaker and writer. Her career began in London, where she worked in the organic fruit and vegetable industry, which sparked a lifelong passion for seasonal, spray-free produce. Now based in Whakatāne, she tends her own extensive organic garden, putting her philosophy of ‘food as medicine’ into daily practice.

For more seasonal recipes and women’s wellness insights, explore Sharp Bite, Paula’s blog at www.paulasharpnutrition.com – a fresh bite of inspiration for healthier, more joyful living.

Photo at top of article: Almaje / iStock

Worm Farming Tips

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Home gardener Michelle Coenradi has four worm farms on the go. Here she outlines the benefits, and offers some tips from her experience.

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I am passionate about my worms. There are so many benefits to worm farming, and it’s something you can do almost anywhere, even on a balcony. Worm farms produce two types of fertiliser: a liquid (sometimes called tea or juice) and a more solid one (vermicast). I leave the siphon open and sit a bucket underneath to collect the liquid.

Benefits of worm juice and vermicast

  1. Enhances soil fertility.
  2. Promotes plant growth.
  3. Deters pests and diseases.
  4. Improves soil structure – contains microorganisms and enzymes that improve soil aeration and water retention, leading to better root development.
  5. Rich in readily available nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as trace elements.
  6. Improved aeration and drainage results in reduced soil compaction
  7. Enhances the activity of beneficial microbes which are essential for nutrient cycling and overall soil health.
  8. Cost-effective fertiliser that you can make yourself.
  9. Vermicast is pH neutral.

ABOVE: Inside one of Michelle’s worm farms (Photos: Michelle Conraedi)

A healthy home for your worms

Worms need a dark, moist and well aerated environment and a temperature between 15–25ºC. You can put in shredded paper for them to live and breed in, or a worm mat which can be purchased at hardware stores.

Worms love anything curved or round to nest in and keep themselves warm, especially avocado and watermelon skins, and pumpkin is a hit as well.

What do they like to eat?

  • 70% nitrogen-rich ‘green waste’ like fruit and vege scraps, eggshells, coffee grounds and tea bags (make sure they’re compostable ones). Avoid citrus fruit and the onion family.
  • 30% carbon ‘brown waste’, like newspaper and cardboard.

You can feed them daily but I tend to feed weekly.

When I put scraps in I sprinkle Tumbleweed worm compost conditioner over the top. This keeps the pH balanced – you can tell if the worms are struggling with an alkaline imbalance because they lose their colour and start turning white. You can also use garden lime sparingly.

The vermicast is referred to as black gold, indicating its value in the garden. I find worms are hardy and easy care; you really can’t go wrong with a worm farm and they are so rewarding.

ABOVE: Michelle’s vegetable garden flourishes with the addition of vermicast and liquid from her worm farms.

More information

There is lots more information about worm farming online, such as these tips from the Compost Collective.

Photo at top: Compost Collective

Strawberries – a self-sufficient crop

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By Gillian Swinton 

Images and text from The Good Life by Gillian Swinton, photography by Francine Boer Photography and Gillian Swinton. Published by Allen & Unwin NZ, RRP $45.00.

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Planting strawberries in winter might sound ridiculous, but it is a great activity to do while the garden is dormant. When your strawberry plants are in the ground, you should notice runners coming off each mature plant. These runners are future strawberry plants, meaning that if you look after your plants, strawberries can become yet another self-sufficient crop.

Strawberry plants are going to remain in your garden for a few years, so consider where you’re placing them. Wherever you plant them, they will need a bit of love in the beginning to ensure they fruit in summer. I’ve chosen to plant ours in the paddock next to our garlic crops, as they make great companions. Keep in mind they will need protection from birds, so growing them in a berry house or in an area you can easily cover is key!

Hamish harvests strawberries from under the bird netting

To obtain runners, find a healthy strawberry plant and locate the running stem from the original plant. There may be a few plants on one runner, and you can take them all. Look for little roots and healthy crowns developing at the base. I trim these down and plant them in a seed-raising mix until spring when the soil temperatures rise.

You could do this in autumn or spring, but I find taking the runners in winter, then keeping them in good soil and well fed with seaweed tonic, means I can build healthy roots in time for a head start in spring.

I also build their future garden beds, ready for the runners when it gets warmer. For my strawberry bed, I:

  • fork the ground gently to get some air into the soil.
  • add compost.
  • add chicken poop — it’s acidic, which strawberries love!
  • add leaf mulch and grass clippings — grass clippings in winter are fine to add as there are no seeds. Mixing them with leaves makes a powerhouse combo.
  • add weed matting. This will protect the plant, suppress weeds and stop any fruit in summer from sitting on the ground. Many gardeners dislike using weed matting, but we use it happily for our strawberry beds. You could replace weed matting with wool or a heavy mulch of pea straw. We get some big winds in spring, so pegging down weed matting helps keep our organic materials from being blown away, as well as retaining soil moisture.
  • blow-torch holes into the matting. Melting the matting seals the holes and makes it easier for us to plant the runners.
  • add an irrigation line under the weed matting, to be hooked up in spring when the runners are planted.

When it comes time to plant in spring, get the young plants and plant in the holes in the matting. You may have to dig down through the layers, but make sure not to cover the crown (the stem where the leaves develop from) with soil. Water in with seaweed tonic and keep plants well irrigated through spring and summer.

New plants won’t yield much fruit in their first year, but they will do better in years two and three. Keep covered with netting to prevent birds (and dogs) from getting in. With some care each year, you shouldn’t have to buy strawberries or strawberry plants again!

Cover of The Good Life by Gillian Swinton