Beauty and the feast

A passion for our natural heritage, an imaginative artistic vision, and some determined scrounge-hounding has resulted in the destination café that is Eutopia, in Northland’s Kaiwaka. Theresa Sjöquist tries the coffee and finds out what’s behind the scenes. 

First opened in 2001, Eutopia Café had fallen into disrepair when Marijke Valkenburg and her husband Robert ter Veer bought it in 2014. They imagined eighteen months of solid slog should do the trick to upgrade the funky coffeehouse, but it was five years before they opened in April 2019. Now Eutopia serves breakfast, lunch and coffees, with as much organic food as possible, in an environment that sparks the imagination and draws in ever more curious visitors and day-trippers.  

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Photos: Theresa Sjöquist

Learning by growing

In the picturesque seaside town of Riverton, west of Invercargill, a school garden is proving to be a fertile ground for the cross-pollination of learning, as Hollie Guyton and Rebecca Perez show here in words and pictures. 

Photos: Hollie Guyton and Rebecca Perez 

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Hollie Guyton is the librarian at Aparima College and Rebecca Perez is the school’s vegetable gardener. Together Hollie and Rebecca founded Village Agrarians villageagrarians.org, whose mission is to support and grow the communities of organic growers and farmers, producers, food activists, community gardeners, eaters, and everyone working to grow local, ecological and equitable food systems. 

Whenua Warrior

Moko Morris talks with Kelly Francis, a Kai Oranga graduate and the catalyst for over 250 food gardens that have been planted since last spring.

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Motivated by attending a Kai Oranga course at Papatūānuku Marae, Kelly Francis (Ngāti Wharara, Ngāti Korokoro and Ngāpuhi) created a charitable trust and social enterprise movement called Whenua Warrior. Her vision is to have a harvestable garden available to every person in the country and her mission is to feed, teach and empower communities through māra kai (food gardens).

Providing solutions and connection

The idea came to Kelly from understanding communities that she had been in, the challenges they face and the solutions she had learnt to share. It solves multiple issues including knowledge- and time-poor whānau, provides financial stability through not having to purchase vegetables, and offers a connection to Papatūānuku (Mother Earth) and what she provides us with.

“The most important thing I learnt on the Kai Oranga course was Hua Parakore – the six principles of the Hua Parakore verification system,” says Kelly.

“It also came from knowing the mana you can get from providing kai to your whānau, the need to understand the whakapapa of your kai and the advantages of connecting your wairua with mahi māra kai. I wanted to find a way to help our communities with these indigenous techniques and tried to imagine the entire country understanding their food in this depth… and then find a way to give that koha to them.”

So Whenua Warrior was born.

Gardening is a whānau affair: Kelly, Tainui, Passion and Pania Newton at Ihumatao, Māngere

How it works

Involving others comes naturally for Kelly; they usually find her. It’s the story, passion or mahi behind each project that attracts people to her kaupapa. Finding people is very important to her – but whoever is there on the day are the people that were meant to be.

Her approach to gardening projects is to ensure that community and their needs are met first and foremost. What Whenua Warrior build and who they build it with needs to be sustainable and beneficial for years to come. Anyone can put a box of dirt in your backyard, but not everyone can teach how to get that box of dirt to benefit you, your family, hapū and iwi.

Once a māra kai is established, there must be buy-in from families so that there is a foundation of people that work together to ensure the benefits are felt wide and far. ‘Build day’ is about the community and its people, not the garden. Post-build is about supporting the people to support the garden.

There are two different arms to the Whenua Warrior approach:

  1. 100% community-based, with no money involved. The community identifies what they need and Whenua Warrior supports them to source seedlings, soil and materials, then helps to facilitate the build and works out ways it can be managed.
  2. 100% community-based, backed by funding. A call-out is made to the community as above, then funding is accessed if required.

This approach has been successful and over 250 māra kai have been built so far, in South Auckland, Mount Wellington and Whangarei. Whenua Warrior is now in its eleventh month, and has started on more of the larger-sized gardens rather than focus on the number. In September this year, 50 gardens will be built in the back of 50 homes in Kawakawa. The process from initial contact to actual build varies from place to place but is usually done in under six weeks.

Tainui with beetroot seedlings

Hua Parakore principles

Kelly explains the principles of Hua Parakore (clean, pure, kai atua) in the following way:

“When contemplating a project, I look at the dates of the maramataka (moon planting calendar) that I can plan on to benefit the build day, hui days, decision days. It is an important aspect in all parts of the project for the wellness of people and for the timeline structure for the project.

“I consider te ao tūroa [the natural world] when we are on the whenua and trying to discover what Papatuānuku already has and what can be built to benefit the tangata whenua. Knowing your surroundings and your options for build is something our tohunga would be responsible for before the land was confirmed to build māra on.

“At this stage whakapapa is considered as well. What happened here? How was this whenua used? What is the whakapapa of the area, people, whenua? Kōrero on the land will potentially allow us to discover the best possible places to plant A versus B.

“We then have the holistic connections that are in our principles: wairua, or spirit. I ask to make sure that I am allowed on the land to do the mahi – ask tangata whenua directly but also karakia to ask our tupuna to ensure our holistic safety. We connect everything physical to spiritual and must acknowledge everyone at every time.”

Wairua can also be a verb – ‘acting with wairua, doing with wairua’, says Kelly. “All actions taken in the build day must have everyone’s wairua in mind. I think that the wrong wairua can mean an empty plate. Everyone must be in tune with each other… and share the mauri.

“Mauri is what you are passing on from you to kai, and from kai back to you. This is most important when planting – and the atmosphere for planting needs to be completely serene and positive. What you plant is what you eat, and I consider it a hugely important part of build day to get the community mauri at its highest to allow the passing from them to their kai, and eventually from the kai to them.

“Mana – this is felt mainly when all of the above has been completed. The principle that can only be reported to yourself. Mana is not something you earn – it is something within you. Only you can choose how much mana you apply to each decision you make. It is your spiritual pat on the back – and I normally feel this when I am back home and contemplating the completion of each project.”

Whānau and kai more important than money

Passion receiving beetroot seedlings

Kelly says the most fun part is meeting the communities and teaching and learning at the same time together. She shares the matauranga (knowledge) in a way that benefits Papatuānuku, focusing on knowing that people are better off and proving her strong view that money shouldn’t be the main focus of life: family and kai is.

“I built this idea out of hope, because I truly care about what your kids will be able to access when they are responsible to provide food for their tables. We should be thinking of what we can do NOW to benefit them then,” says Kelly.

“I strongly encourage all families in New Zealand to plant fruit trees and vegetables in every household. There are no negatives to growing your own food.”

The 6 principles of
Hua Parakore

Whakapapa

Wairua

Mana

Maramataka

Mauri

Te Ao Tūroa

Kai Oranga

Find out more about free Kai Oranga courses here: www.wananga.ac.nz/programmes/school-of-iwi-development/kai-oranga

Whenua Warrior

facebook.com/whenuawarrior


Moko Morris is Co-chair of the Soil & Health National Council who lives in Ōtaki. She is also the national coordinator of Te Waka Kai Ora, the NZ Māori Organics Authority.

The best of both worlds: Regen ag and organics

Aotearoa New Zealand is seeing a groundswell of regenerative agriculture. Martin Freeth finds out just how complementary the new thinking and practices are with our longer tradition of organic farming. 

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Southland farmer Tim Gow smiles to himself when regenerative agriculture (regen) is discussed. This organic sheep and beef farmer has been building soil quality, growing nutrient-dense feed for well-adapted animals, and concerning himself with carbon capture and retention for over three decades. The tenets of today’s regen movement are hardly new to him.  

Says Tim: “I’m enthusiastic about the fact that many people are moving to regen, which is a whole lot better than using all that synthetic fertiliser and chemicals, but they seem to be overcomplicating something which is basically simple and actually very old.” 

Sabbatical for the soil 

Tim Gow began ‘sabbatical fallowing’ – the practice of annually locking up one seventh of the farm for much of the year to enable natural composting of plants and soil, and regeneration of everything that grows above and below ground – in 1987.  

Tim and his wife Helen haven’t looked back since their first rotation when improvements started showing up in soil depth and biology, feed supply and livestock health. Their 469-hectare farm, Mangapiri Downs on rolling country near Blackmount, is now into its fifth rotation – and has long since become a strong platform for their stud breeding of distinctive Shire hair sheep (Wiltshire-Marsh cross) and polled Highland Tufty cattle.  

Ferdinand, a Tufty (polled Highland) bull calf

Breeding for natural health 

It’s also now more than three decades since the Gows achieved organic certification as meat and livestock producers through BioGro NZ (March 1989). For Tim, an organic approach to every aspect of farm management is a perfect, natural complement to fallowing. He hasn’t drenched or vaccinated an animal in 32 years – hasn’t needed to because Mangapiri’s adaptively bred sheep and cattle are so healthy on dense, diverse pastures and naturally enriched soils.  

The Shire rams and ewes, and Tufty cattle, are marketed to farmers throughout New Zealand as organic livestock for use in their production flocks and herds. Both have been advanced (and trademarked) on the strengths of selective breeding for hardiness and meat production, and of the organic and fallowing management system at Mangapiri.  

“Surely it’s time to reject chemicals, look to the basic cause of parasites and disease and move to organic methods of control, such as breeding the natural immunity back into your stock like they used to have before the chemicals and drench arrived over 60 years ago,” says Tim in his latest stud stock catalogue. 

Building vitality in the soil  

With sabbatical fallowing, that seventh portion of the farm is shut off each October, as a hay paddock would be, after being lightly grazed and having the residual of grasses, herbs and legumes trampled by the animals.  

“You fold much of your spring growth and summer seeds down into the topsoil where it becomes compost … you leave it until late the next winter before putting stock in again to take the top off that paddock’s huge growth.” 

The Gows import no feed and make no baleage; winter feed is all standing grass crops, mostly in blocks that are being fallowed that year. On shut-off areas, Tim has been amazed at the natural resurgence of plant life, including traditional grasses and Maku lotus not otherwise seen for decades.  

“You can see the vitality in the soil … its organic matter, worm life and just the look and smell of it. It becomes soil that will get you through a drought or flood.” 

Tim was inspired while travelling in Asia, the Middle East and Europe in the late 1970s and again in the mid-80s. He saw farmers applying their own versions of fallowing, and recognised this as ancient wisdom even referred to in the Bible, Koran and Torah.  

“I came home determined to give it a go,” he says. Within a decade, the benefits of fallowing at Mangapiri were recognised by soil scientists from Invermay Research Station, who compared soils of the same type from 19 Southland farms. 

What constitutes ‘regenerative’? 

Could there be a more regenerative farmer? Tim Gow – organic producer, sabbatical fallowing practitioner and man of constant inquiry – will surely look the part to anyone reading this year’s ‘Regenerative agriculture in Aotearoa New Zealand’ paper from Manaaki Whenua Landcare Research. 

The researchers’ literature review and wide consultation led them to identify a ‘regen mindset’ among farmers, with 11 core principles that include: treat the farm as a living system; maximise year-round photosynthesis; minimise disturbance; harness diversity; and manage livestock holistically – see sidebar. 

The Manaaki Whenua team refrain from providing a standard definition of regen because, they say, of the diversity of ideas and practices in the regenerative basket, and because more work is needed to understand the contribution of concepts in te ao Māori like kaitiakitanga. There is nothing for regen, at least in New Zealand, as clear and concise as the international definition for organic agriculture (OA) – see sidebar. 

Regen obviously does encompass the same ideas. As the Manaaki Whenua paper notes, regenerative principles and practices – the term itself originates from the United States in the late 1970s – are all about reversing the environmental damage now associated with conventional farming, and about managing ‘agroecosystems’ in holistic ways for continuous improvement in social and cultural terms as well as environmental. (An agroecosystem is a natural ecosystem modified by people for the production of food and fibre. For an overview of the concept and some related research, see  sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/agroecosystems.) 

shire sheep.
Shire sheep (Wiltshire-Marsh cross) at Mangapiri Downs, Southland

Regen network: Quorum Sense 

In New Zealand today, there are said to be at least 1000 farmers systematically applying regen practices in their commercial production of milk, meat, fibre and/or plant crops. The figure comes from Quorum Sense, a farmers’ network formed in 2018 with a mission to ‘generate and share practical knowledge to support regenerative farm systems and vibrant rural communities’ – see quorumsense.org.nz. Quorum Sense holds seminars and field days, and shares stories online – all reflecting ‘learn together’ and ‘make context-specific decisions’ which are two more of the Manaaki Whenua-articulated principles. 

Needless to say, many of regen’s ‘linked in’ farmers are also certified organic producers, or on their way to becoming so. They recognise the foundational importance of soil health, the value of multispecies pastures, and the need for great care in matching animals and their feed requirements to nature and local conditions, while also eschewing synthetic fertilisers and chemical control of diseases, pests and weeds. 

You can see the vitality in the soil … its organic matter, worm life and just the look and smell of it. It becomes soil that will get you through a drought or flood.

Regen and organic working together   

Russell and Charlotte Heald, dairy farmers near Norsewood in southern Hawke’s Bay, are a good example. Last season, they milked 385 cows (once a day), with no inorganic inputs, much care in the rotational grazing regime on their nine-species pastures, and a strong focus on prevention of cow health issues, not just treatment. The Healds see a perfect fit between regenerative and organic – and they expect to attain full certification this November. 

“They’re working very well together as one cohesive system,” says Charlotte. “With organics there are few things no longer in the toolbox … you might want to apply a bit of N to help one paddock along or spray out some blackberry but you can’t and anyway, we now have effective alternatives,” says Russell, for whom the transition from conventional dairying began in 2017. 

The Healds went regenerative first with advice from a biological farming advisor on a new pasture mix of grasses, herbs and legumes, and soil enhancement using fish-based products under the Biosea brand. Benefits in soil and plant health were evident in the first season, says Russell, along with a nearly $200,000 saving in feed costs and a much reduced bill for animal health.  

Organic certification was the obvious next step, says Charlotte. “It was going well with all the changes we were making but we were also seeing how people increasingly want to know more about where their food comes from … to be assured of its quality and the integrity of the farming system. That’s where organic certification becomes so valuable … and it is also about completing the alignment with our own values.”  

For Russell, the basics are the same. “It’s all about building the immunity and health of the animals, and that flows out of having healthier soil and healthier plants,” he says.  

Not to be forgotten also is the need for farm profitability – and the Healds say their move to regenerative organic dairying has been positive in that regard, even through the particularly dry 2020–21 season. 

11 regenerative principles

  1. The farm is a living system
  2. Make context-specific decisions
  3. Question everything
  4. Learn together
  5. Failure is part of the journey
  6. Open and flexible toolkit
  7. Plan for what you want; start with what you have
  8. Maximise photosynthesis (year round)
  9. Minimise disturbance
  10. Harness diversity
  11. Manage livestock strategically/holistically

More information available at: www.landcareresearch.co.nz

Market value and provenance of food  

The regen movement definitely does have farmers’ financial health in mind: that’s part of social and cultural wellbeing. As the Manaaki Whenua paper notes, the longer-term aspiration is for regeneratively produced New Zealand food and fibre to accrue higher value as global markets recognise the embedded environmental benefits. In one sense, organic certification gives producers a headstart on this (as well as adding the quality assurance of ‘organic’ to each item of product). 

Simon Osborne, mid-Canterbury arable farmer and co-founder of Quorum Sense, thinks regen will have market value in itself when the farming and ecosystem provenance of food can be conveyed directly from producer to consumer through digital communication. Meantime, he says, it just isn’t realistic, or necessary, for every regen farmer to strive for organic certification.  

“It is probably relatively easy for pastoral farmers with their twin focus on soil fertility for growing grasses and on animal health because they have readily available organic options… it isn’t the same for large-scale arable producers like me, without huge additional costs and lots more bloody hard work,” says Simon.  

No-till arable farming 

His farming, on 280 hectares of mostly shallow clay loam near Leeston, is ‘no-till’ at its best in New Zealand. Simon has carried on and refined the practices of his father through 30 years of his own trial and error with different crops, companion planting and rotations. He grows wheat, barley, peas and various other crops – and he continues to trial new ones. 

Today his soils have depth, structure and microbial activity like never before, supporting deeper roots and more vigorous growth above ground. The farm has been at various times a learning site for agronomy students at nearby Lincoln University.  

He doesn’t use insecticides or fungicides and makes minimum, targeted use of nitrogen fertiliser, He does use glyphosate as a “primary cultivation tool” in different areas of the farm annually, prior to sowing. The only viable alternative would be extensive tillage, exposing the soil to more weeds, and pest and disease risks. That’s not an option for a farmer with such passion for his soil – and one whose soil tests show no detriment to microbial activity from very limited spraying.  

People increasingly want to know more about where their food comes from … to be assured of its quality and the integrity of the farming system.

Common ground 

Simon – and scores of others consulted for the Manaaki Whenua paper – see organic farming and regen both springing from the same philosophical, emotional and practical rejection of conventional, often called ‘industrial’ or ‘intensive’, agriculture with its bias to monoculture, and reliance on synthetic nitrogen and phosphate fertilisers, on agrichemicals and on animal antibiotics. These are all associated with freshwater water degradation, soil and biodiversity loss, excessive carbon emissions and climate change.  

“We have a huge debt of gratitude to the pioneering organics movement. If they hadn’t held the line over the past 50 years, there would be no starting point for regen … industrial agriculture would have taken over lock, stock and barrel,” says Simon. 

Manaaki Whenua describes regen as ‘a grass roots, farmer-driven movement founded in an ecological paradigm’ and its members as engaged in ‘wider systems thinking … with an outcomes focus’.  

To farmers like Simon Osborne – and others in the regen movement spoken for this article – it all comes down to this mindset of the 11 principles, and to personal willingness and capability to adopt alternatives to the conventional model.  

All share a disdain for farming based on manufactured inputs and production growth goals that have proven, longer-term damage to ecosystems. But they see no one alternative prescription for every farm or growing operation that will reverse the damage, while producing nutritious, affordable food for all and sustaining communities of farmers financially and socially. There is a common concern that achieving organic certification has become too prescriptive, and hence costly and time consuming, for farmers and too focused on creating niche consumer markets for food. 

It all starts with soil health 

Regenerative or organic, everything starts with soil health – that is certainly clear. Seems clear also that out on the land, Tim and Helen Gow, Russell and Charlotte Heald, and Simon Osborne are all moving in the same direction.  


Martin Freeth is a journalist, consultant and olive grower based in the Wellington region.  

Soil under pressure

This third article in the Soil Doctor series by Dr Tim Jenkins looks at the issue of compacted soils. 

In this series we look at some of the common problems facing soil health. We explore the symptoms you might notice, how we can diagnose the root causes and what treatments, and indeed cures, can be implemented.

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Soil compacted by tractor tyres
Photos: Tim Jenkins

The rainforest of the sea

Trudy Kessels finds out about AgriSea’s sustainable harvesting of seaweed for fertiliser, and research into other uses of this taonga.  

“Bring the kids!” Tane Bradley, managing director of AgriSea tells me on the phone. “We’re all about having the kids around!” So I arrive, two children in tow, and am warmly invited into the staff lounge, where a spread of delicious muffins is laid out before us. 

“Tane doesn’t do anything without food,” says Clare Bradley. It seems important, a special kind of Kiwi conviviality, and is a demonstration of this couple’s focus on ‘taking care’. Taking care of the environment – the land and sea environments – taking care of the people who have supported them, who work for them and alongside them.  

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Nourishing our elders

Good nutrition is important for us all, and perhaps even more so as people age. Anne Gastinger offers suggestions for how older people can get the best nutrition, and shares her own family story.  

 

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In their retirement years, our parents often worked together in their garden. Both dedicated gardeners and capable cooks, they practised ‘garden to plate’ nutritional care for over six decades of marriage. The enjoyment, exercise and nourishment this lifestyle gave them arguably contributed to their long lifespans.  

In their final years together, worsening rheumatoid arthritis in our mother’s hands saw our father become the sole caretaker of both domains, until his death at age 90. After his passing five years ago our extended family took over various tasks and responsibilities to enable our mother’s wish to remain in her home.  

Photo: iStock/lucigerma

Dining with mum

Living nearby has made it easy for my husband and me to do a ‘meals on wheels’ dinner routine. One of my brothers joins us, which equates to three households uniting four nights a week to share kai and conversation around my mother’s dining table.

We share a food kitty, and for health reasons and environmental concerns eat an organic diet. Here in Christchurch we have access to a cornucopia of organic goods from retailers such as Liberty Market, Piko and Beckenham Organic Butchery.

We all contribute, whether it’s providing a warm welcoming home, care duties, grocery shopping, cooking, dishwashing or kitchen clean-up. We cook in our kitchen, load the crate of food into the car boot and three minutes later the meal, still piping hot, is ready to be served at mum’s.

Tasty and appetising

In old age a number of things can enhance the health benefits and joy of food. “Food needs to be zingy and sharp in flavour rather than mild, because your sense of taste fades,” my mother says.

My sister-in-law, Rita Hamberger agrees. She’s been a naturopath for over 30 years with her own practice in Rosenheim, Germany. “The food should be tasty, aromatically and visually pleasing. The elderly need a diverse diet incorporating food with sharp or bitter flavours which are good for stomach function, aiding the absorption of vitamins and minerals from the food.”

Rita’s suggestion of papaya digestive enzymes to aid swallowing are, my mother observes, “a great help for times when the food doesn’t want to go down”.

However, Rita recommends being cautious about too many supplements for older people, as these are not always absorbed well.

Food needs to be zingy and sharp in flavour, because your sense of taste fades

Social health and wellbeing

Access to a diverse diet of fresh food can be difficult for elderly people who live in their own home. Elderly people living alone often take short cuts with their meals.

The will to cook and the wish to eat are affected by various factors like limited incomes, concern about food waste, transport limitations, shopping stress due to mobility and medical issues, isolation, loneliness and depression caused by loss of one’s life partner and friends.

Loneliness can be as harmful for our health as smoking, according to research published in Heart magazine in 2016. Different cultures have long understood the need and value of supporting older folk to eat well by shared living, sharing meals, visiting with excess produce from the garden, helping peel the spuds or dice the carrots and assisting with transport to the farmers’ market or grocery store.

Elderly people can even forget to eat. They may not have much appetite because they’re bored or not getting so much exercise.

Anxiety about digestive issues including constipation can be another eating deterrent for some elderly. Lower levels of physical activity can contribute to a sluggish digestive system, which can then be compounded by stodgy foods like toasted white bread layered with jam. Ample fibre is essential.

Fewer calories, more nutrients

In old age life is increasingly experienced from the confines of an armchair, so we need fewer calories. Yet the ageing body’s need for nutrients is equal to, if not more than, our need in former active times.

Kay Baxter and Bob Corker’s food philosophy outlined in their book Change of Heart: The Ecology of Nourishing Food has strongly influenced my endeavours to maximise dietary gains for my mother. Their approach emphasises nutrient-dense organically grown plants, meat from grass-fed animals, fermented foods, and soups using bone broths.

Eating this fare, my mother (92) never gets colds, flus or stomach upsets. “At this stage in life with medical problems you expect this, but it’s not the case,” she says. “Eating organics is an important part of this.”

Good gut health

Make batches of soup and then refrigerate or freeze them in portion sizes. Stewed fruit is a useful staple for the pantry and the fridge.

Gluten intolerance can develop at any stage in life, causing gut issues like bloating, diarrhoea or constipation. Fortunately gluten-free grains and cereals like corn, quinoa, amaranth, buckwheat, sorghum, millet and amaranth make flavoursome, nutritious substitutes in bread and baked goods.

Keep hydrated 

Elderly people often find it hard to keep up their fluid intake. Soups are ideal, warming the body as well providing fluids.

Fear of incontinence can also lead to restricting liquids, but this can result in other health issues. Keep a freshly filled water bottle within reach of their favourite armchair as a good visual reminder to drink. Also helpful are the blossoming number of herbal teas on the market, catering for all palates and tailored for numerous health conditions.

Make batches of soup and refrigerate or freeze them in portion sizes

Serving ideas for the weekly menu 

Include a diverse range of foods in the weekly menu for best nutrition.

  • Vary the protein daily, such as beef, fish, lamb, chicken, eggs or nuts, seeds and pulses; likewise vary carbohydrates.
  • Salads with a smorgasbord of ingredients are appetising and ideal for providing the day’s quota of vegetables. Finely dice or grate raw ingredients to aid chewing, swallowing and digestion.
  • Mash root vegetables into a creamy texture with milk and butter so they’re easier to swallow.
  • Accompany steamed vegetables with a squeeze of lemon for zing, dips like garlic aioli, or homemade chutneys, which give a dash of flavour and extra moisture to aid digestion. Dry food like pastry can be problematic for this reason.
  • Slow-cooked crockpot dishes flavoured with herbs, seeds and spices together with a splash of wine or apple cider vinegar are favourites of mine. These provide all-important fluids in the form of cooking stock, and result in tender meat and vegetables that are easy to digest. If possible use chicken, meat or fish cuts containing bone and cartilage, so the sauces contain essential dietary minerals found in gelatine.
Anne’s mother, Joan Lydon. Photo: Martin Gastinger

Double bubble 

Occasionally when cooking, double the quantity of main dishes that freeze well. They are a perfect meal resource to gift elderly relatives and friends. Include portion sizes for two or more, and encourage your elders to invite others to join them for companionship and good food. Any leftovers are ideal for lunch the following day.

Good food and company are vital for every stage in life, and even more so in old age. Coming together for an evening meal my mother says is “the highlight of my day”.


Anne Gastinger lives, gardens and writes in Christchurch.

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Shovel-ready solutions to fight climate change

It’s vital we scale up organic, regenerative agriculture to reverse climate change, writes Andre Leu

There is a long-term disaster far worse than the Covid-19 pandemic. The pandemic will end in a few years, but the world will lose many millions more to sickness, hunger, poverty and catastrophic weather events because of the unprecedented climate emergency.  

Despite the global economic shut down as a response to the pandemic, the world reached a record of 417.2 parts per million of carbon dioxide (ppm CO2) in the atmosphere in May 2020 – the most in over three million years. 

image of shovel with soil.
The soil holds almost three times the amount of carbon than the atmosphere and biomass (forests and plants) combined. 

It’s time to get on with drawing down the excess CO2 by scaling up existing regenerative agriculture practices, especially organic systems.   

Why regenerative agriculture?  

Regenerative agriculture is based on a range of food and farming systems, especially organic agriculture, that use the photosynthesis of plants to capture CO2 and store it in the soil as soil organic matter. The soil holds almost three times the amount of carbon than the atmosphere and biomass (forests and plants) combined. 

We owe this to future generations and to all the rich biodiversity on our precious living planet. 

Three best-practice regen ag systems 

There are numerous regenerative farming systems that can sequester COfrom the atmosphere through photosynthesis, and turn this into soil organic matter through the actions of plant roots and soil biology – the soil microbiome. The simple back-of-the-envelope calculations used for the three examples below show the considerable potential of best-practice regenerative systems to reverse the climate emergency. All of these systems can be certified organic. 

BEAM composting system 

BEAM (biologically enhanced agricultural management), developed by Dr David Johnson of New Mexico State University, produces compost with a high diversity of soil microorganisms, using the Johnson-Su bioreactor. Multiple crops grown with BEAM show it can sequester 37,700 kg of CO2 per hectare per year. 

BEAM can be used in all soil-based food production systems, including annual crops, permanent crops and grazing systems, including arid and semi-arid regions. If BEAM was extrapolated globally across agricultural lands it would sequester 185 Gt of CO2 per year. 

The BEAM bioreactor is a composting system using mainly wood chips and leaves. It’s fungally dominated, regularly irrigated, aerobic but requires no turning. It can be made using readily available materials – for more information including a video showing how to make one, see regenerationinternational.org/bioreactor

No kill, no till  

Singing Frogs Farm in California (singingfrogsfarm.com) is a highly productive ‘no kill no till’, richly biodiverse, certified organic, agroecological horticulture farm on three acres. The key to their no-till system is to cover the planting beds with mulch and compost (instead of ploughing them or using herbicides), and planting directly into the compost, along with a high biodiversity of cash and cover crops that are continuously rotated to break weed, disease and pest cycles. 

According to Chico State University they have increased the soil organic matter from 2.4% to an optimal 7–8% in six years. This farming system is applicable to more than 80% of farmers around the world, as the majority of farmers have less than two hectares. If the Singing Frogs Farm system was extrapolated globally across arable and permanent crop lands it would sequester 179 Gt of CO2 per year.  

Regenerative grazing 

Around 68% of the world’s agricultural lands are used for grazing. The published evidence shows that correctly managed pastures can build up soil carbon faster than many other agricultural systems and this is stored deeper in the soil. This very important for New Zealand where grazing systems are a significant part of the economy.  

Research by published Machmuller et al. showed that regenerative grazing systems sequestered 29,360 kg of CO2 per hectare per year. If these regenerative grazing practices were implemented on the world’s grazing lands they would sequester 98.6 Gt of CO2 per year. 

Ending the climate emergency 

Transitioning a small proportion of global agricultural production to these evidence-based, best-practice, regenerative systems will sequester enough CO2 to reverse climate change and restore the global climate. 

  • 10% of agricultural lands under BEAM could sequester 18.5 Gt of CO2 per year. 
  • 10% of smallholder farms across arable and permanent croplands using Singing Frogs Farm’s no-kill no-till systems could sequester 18 Gt of CO2 per year.  
  • A further 10% of grasslands under regenerative grazing could sequester 10 Gt of CO2 per year. 

This would result in 46.5 Gt of CO2 per year being sequestered into the soil – which is a lot more than the amount of sequestration needed to draw down the 25.61 Gt of COthat is currently being emitted.  

Shovel-ready solutions 

These back-of-the-envelope calculations show the considerable potential of scaling up proven high performing regenerative systems. These examples are ‘shovel-ready’ solutions as they are based on existing practices. There’s no need to invest in expensive, potentially dangerous and unproven technologies such as carbon capture and storage, or geo-engineering.  

We are in a climate emergency and we don’t have the luxury of wasting precious time on intellectual arguments about whether this is possible or to convince skeptics and land managers unwilling to change. 

It’s time to get on with drawing down the excess CO2 by scaling up existing regenerative agriculture practices, especially organic systems. This is very doable and achievable. It would require minimal financial costs to fund existing institutions, training organisations and relevant NGOs to run courses and workshops. Most importantly this then needs to be scaled up through proven farmer-to-farmer training systems. The evidence shows that these types of peer-to-peer systems are the most effective way to increase adoption of best practices. 

The widespread adoption of best-practice regenerative agriculture systems should be the highest priority for farmers, ranchers, governments, international organisations, elected representatives, industry, training organisations, educational institutions and climate change organisations. We owe this to future generations and to all the rich biodiversity on our precious living planet. 

About the author

André Leu became international director of Regeneration International (RI) in 2017. Previously he was president of IFOAM – Organics International, the international umbrella organisation for the organic sector. Travelling and working in more than 100 countries over 40 years, André has gained an extensive knowledge of farming and environmental systems around the world. He and his wife Julia run an organic tropical fruit farm in Daintree, Australia.

Compost solutions for urban renters

How easy is it for urban renters to compost their food scraps? Meghan Read interviews two Aucklanders in contrasting living situations about the options they’ve chosen.  

Michael SewellMichael Sewell, 22, living in University accommodation

Michael’s in his fourth year of an engineering science degree at Auckland University. In 2020, he lived in the University’s largest self-catered student accommodation, Carlaw Park Student Village (CPSV). As a member of Carlaw’s Green Team, he helped facilitate a trial of WeCompost’s compost collection service at the student hall.  

We wanted to know more about how this service worked.

What are the pros and cons of using a compost collection company, compared with individual composting?  

Using the WeCompost service is a far easier way to compost food waste from an individual’s perspective. As the tougher aspects of composting were outsourced to WeCompost, it simplifies the act of composting down to the same level of complexity as using your recycling bins; all you must know is what you can and cannot put in the bin.   

The biggest advantage is how accessible the service makes composting to people in an urban setting. The biggest issue I see with this, however, is that by outsourcing the composting process, we lose the opportunity for teaching people how to compost, giving them an appreciation for the process, and utilising composted food waste as fertile soil. This means people become reliant on the service and do not have any proper transferrable composting skills when they move out of UoA accommodation. Another problem with commercial composting is that you are essentially trading methane emissions for carbon emissions by transporting the compost to a remote facility (WeCompost’s facility is in the Waikato), although methane is a significantly worse greenhouse gas, so this trade can be seen as desirable.  

Should facilities such as student halls use urban compost companies, or a local garden or space for composting?  

WeCompost’s service is favourable given the scale of the operation. Moving into the future, however, the ideal strategy would be to develop localised composting infrastructure for UoA accommodation. This strategy would teach students valuable skills and appreciation for composting, minimise emissions, and generate fertile soil for local use. Sadly, I do not think this will ever be on UoA’s agenda, but I would happily be proven wrong.  

Will the WeCompost service continue or expand, based on the results of the trial?  

The trial was extremely successful, and so the supposed plans are for expansion. The plan for 2021 is to offer the composting service to an entire building in CPSV, and potentially offer composting services to the entirety of UoA accommodation in the future. Without full buy-in from the student community and proper education around composting, however, am sceptical about how well this will work at UoA.  

Before the compost trial, were food scraps composted?  

Not at all. All food waste was collected as part of the normal waste collection at CPSV, going straight to landfill.   

Hyeon JooHyeon-Joo Kim, 21, living in a small apartment 

Hyeon-Joo Kim’s small apartment is wedged in between fast-food shops and university facilities, she and her flatmates chose to use a bokashi bin to manage their compost effectively in their limited space.  

Why did you choose the bokashi bin as your compost solution?  

I chose to use a bokashi bin because I’m not staying at my current flat for more than a year. Placing a compost bin or worm farm would be large and quite a big job for somewhere temporary. Using a bokashi bin means I can bury the final product without needing to find adequate brown material to make a good compost. The other elements of using a bokashi bin which suit my living space are that it doesn’t smell and can be kept inside.  

How do you use the bokashi bin, and what do you do with the bokashi’d food scraps?  

The process is simple. I leave a container out for all flatmates to put their food waste into. Once it’s full, I empty the container into my bucket, press it down as much as possible, then sprinkle the bokashi zing (like a kombucha scoby) on top of the scraps to get the anaerobic fermentation going. I keep doing this until my bucket is full, then I move onto a second bucket.  

I give the first bucket about a week for full fermentation, until I’m ready to bury the whole thing. I dig a hole about 50 cm deep, then use my spade to mash up the food scraps with the soil until it’s all mixed in and cover it with dirt. Done!  

I will sometimes also drain the bokashi bin of its liquid, dilute the juice with water to give to my plants as fertiliser, or use undiluted to pour down the sink or shower drain as a cleaner.  

 What are the pros and cons of using a bokashi bin?   

Aside from the easy use, bokashi bins can take pretty much all food waste (cooked and raw) as long as there isn’t too much fat or meat. They are good for small spaces and can be used in conjunction with a compost bin.   

The disadvantages mostly relate to the specific space one needs to use a bokashi bin effectively. It’s not useful if you don’t have a garden or a large amount of soil, or if you only have a small, shared garden in a complex where people wouldn’t appreciate regular holes being dug and filled with food waste!  

It can also be difficult to find an appropriately large bucket that is airtight. I would recommend (especially to students) not buying a proper bokashi bin but instead to go to a bakery or fast-food outlet. They will likely be throwing away industrial size, food-safe buckets, which you can take off their hands and save from the landfill.  

How could access to composting be improved in inner city areas?  

I think the council should create more communal garden areas in the inner city. Home composting worked well for me in 2020, but it likely won’t be as easy this year considering the apartment complex I’m moving into. Not everyone has a garden, and even those that do may have to contend with rules in place regarding garden use. Renters ultimately have to abide by their landlords!  

If there were more communal gardens, I think more people living in urban, rental environments would be willing to start composting. They would be great places for people without gardens to enjoy and help divert food waste from landfill while providing inner city green spaces.   

About the author

Meghan Read is Organic NZ’s magazine assistant. She lives in inner city Wellington where she and her flatmates take their compost to the local community orchard.