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Hydroponics: can it count as organic?

Ahead of the government passing the Organic Products Bill, the Soil & Health Associationโ€™s former general manager Pete Huggins talks dirt and water with horticulturists.

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When this magazine was launched in 1942 it was called Compost Club Magazine. Many are attached to the name โ€“ and for good reason. Regenerating soils with organic matter and protecting their fertility for future generations remains a core value for many of you, as well as for us, and for the publisher of Organic NZ โ€“ the Soil & Health Association. 

Today, the importance of soils is headline news โ€“ for food security, for biodiversity and for carbon sequestration. 

Soil fertility is a core value of organics and this commitment is shared with the wider concept of regenerative agriculture, which organics is part of.  

But some would have it a different way, and want to see organics embrace other growing mediums including hydroponics. And in the USA, a long-running court case is being fought over the inclusion of hydroponics under the umbrella of organics. 

Whatโ€™s the deal with hydroponics? 

Hydroponic systems donโ€™t use soil at all. Instead, they use a solution of nutrients to grow crops like lettuces or berry fruit. This can be good for water conservation, and can be energy efficient, but undoubtedly thereโ€™s no soil involved, so you canโ€™t improve its fertility.  

But among those calling for a rethink is retired New Zealand academic Dr Mike Nichols. Mike is an Honorary Member of the International Society for Horticultural Science, and in 2015 was presented with a lifetime achievement award by Vegetables New Zealand. He was one of the first to grow strawberries and blueberries hydroponically in New Zealand. Mike says organics needs to evolve, especially in light of climate change.  

โ€œHydroponics did not exist when organics was founded.โ€ฏDecisions were made that because hydroponics used only inorganic fertilisers it should be excluded.โ€ฏBut organic hydroponics systems using organically derived nutrients overcome this objection.โ€ 

Defining organics matters 

Later this year, the New Zealand government is expected to pass the Organic Products Bill. This bill will establish a government-backed organic standard. For the first time, weโ€™ll have a legal framework around the term organic in Aotearoa.  

This is really important, for a number of reasons. Firstly, our international trade partners are getting serious about organics and we need to keep up. The EU plans to have a quarter of their agricultural land area using certified-organic production methods by 2030 (in case you wondered, European crops that are grown hydroponically cannot be labelled as organic). Japan recently threatened to raise trade barriers against New Zealand in response to glyphosate residues in our honey exports. Even the US government is subsidising farm conversions to organics.  

Our export dollars arenโ€™t the only reason we need a strong legal standard for organics. More important is the issue of trust. Organics is about trust in where your food comes from. Organic consumers will tell you they want their food grown in a way that protects nature. They want pesticide-free, GE-free, high animal welfare standards, good employment conditions, and action on climate change. Without a rigorous standard, you canโ€™t trust your food. If we get this wrong in New Zealand, we will lose that trust. And then all the trade deals in the world canโ€™t save us. Certified-organic food in New Zealand is reliable, but at the moment thereโ€™s nothing stopping someone using the name falsely. Thatโ€™s why it is so important to check for a certification label on what you buy. 

Unfortunately, experience from the US shows us that legislating for the word โ€œorganicโ€ can still go seriously wrong. The relevant US law is the Organic Foods Production Act, which contains a clause that organic production โ€œshall contain provisions designed to foster soil fertilityโ€. However, in 2019 the US government refused to crack down on organic certifiers who were approving the use of hydroponic systems. This is now the subject of expensive court appeals in the US.  

Dr Nichols thinks the US organic regulations are much more realistic for the twenty-first century by allowing hydroponics. He is worried the New Zealand standard might exclude hydroponics, thus making soil-based organics uncompetitive.  

This worry is shared in a different way by the Real Organic Project, a US group established to reassert soil-based organic values in America. They say that real organic farmers in the US are struggling to compete in a dishonest marketplace. They believe that the inclusion of hydroponics is driven by the large industrial players, saying: โ€œBig Ag ultimately won, allowing the . . . hydroponic industries to bend the rules for their own benefit.โ€ 

Bringing it back to soil 

Soil-based agriculture is also a central value behind regenerative agriculture (regen ag) which has attracted serious attention in recent years. But Dr Nichols makes the point that regenerative agriculture by itself isnโ€™t enough to deliver healthy food: โ€œThe concept of regenerative agriculture is good, if it means reducing the use of agricultural chemicals and of cultivation. But if it means not supplying minerals, which may not be present in the soil, and โ€˜hopingโ€™ that the bed rock (or the soil) will supply them, then it is away with the fairies. Nitrogen is the only element that can be imported into the soil naturally.โ€ The addition of organic fertiliser (certified-organic inputs for organic farming) are the answer to this constraint in any farm system, whether hydroponic or not. 

None of the current organic certifiers in New Zealand allow hydroponics and have no plans to do so. BioGro  
chief executive Donald Nordeng was unequivocal, saying, โ€œThere is no such thing as organic hydroponics, so we donโ€™t certify any.โ€ 

This stands us in good stead when it comes to our own legislation. Organic leaders in Aotearoa are focused on healthy soil and nature-based food systems. Hua Parakore, the indigenous verification and validation system created by Te Waka Kai Ora, the national Mฤori organics authority, is similarly soil-based.  

So it seems unlikely that hydroponics can fit under the umbrella of organics in Aotearoa. The Ministry of Primary Industries is currently working with sector leaders to reach agreement around the organic standard. Ultimately, it is ministers that will decide. MPI told Organic NZ that they are listening to what the sector says on a range of topics, including what should be in or out of the scope of the standard. MPI will be writing up the proposals that have come out (including where the sector has agreed to disagree). The debate will continue well into next year. 

An organic growerโ€™s perspective  

Marco de Groot is the general manager of Monavale Blueberries in Cambridge, which has been BioGro-certified since 1993. Hereโ€™s his perspective on hydroponics. 

Ideally, organic growers need to choose a location best suited for growing a particular crop, which includes soil type and climate. Emphasis should be on feeding soil biology, which in turns break down organic matter into nutrients; creating humus rich in microbiological activity;  and maintaining a diverse sward, which aids in providing nutrients and as habitat for beneficial insects.โ€ฏ If this is carried out successfully over a period of years, then this system produces an improved biological cycle and provides more resilience to adverse effects such a droughts, pests and diseases.โ€ฏThe ultimate goal is to achieve a high-brix environment and to create the best-tasting product that is high in nutrition and antioxidants, with a longer shelf life. 

Hydroponics and non-soil substrate fertigation systems rely on synthetically derived inputs and non-organic mediums, which are often imported from overseas, and for the reasons explained above do not align themselves with โ€œtraditionalโ€ and industry-accepted organic management practices.โ€ฏThese systems tend to be used by conventional growers with unsuitable soil and challenging climatic conditions.โ€ฏIt has a direct economic advantage to the grower as crops often are produced within a year rather than several years in the case of blueberries grown conventionally or organically in soil-field conditions. 

Both hydroponic and non-soil substrate fertigation systems force feed plants to create fast growing large plants, and fruit, require relatively high-energy inputs systems, and often lack a fully balanced nutritional complement.โ€ฏ  

These systems do have a part to play in food security but these are systems are not organic! 


The wellbeing of food in Aotearoa

We produce enough food in New Zealand to feed 40 million people, yet one in five Kiwi kids live in households that experience food insecurity.

Gareth Hughes talks about his new role as lead of the Wellbeing Economy Alliance Aotearoa.ย 

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How do you get a cabbage? My book, A Gentle Radical: The life of Jeanette Fitzsimons, was recently published, and in researching the biography I stumbled upon an unusual speech the late Green Party politician had given at the Fourth New Zealand Energy Conference entitled โ€œTwo Ways to Get a Cabbageโ€. What on earth did cabbages have to do with a late 1970s energy conference? Fortunately, I was able to track down a faded typewriter-written copy of her speech where Jeanette used the vegetable as an example of the very different approaches society takes to provide things like cabbages. 

The mainstream approach, even back then, was energy intensive, relying on artificial fertilisers, chemical pesticides, insecticides and fungicides, and complicated fossil fuel-dependent transport and retail chains. The embedded energy and resources that went into growing a commercial cabbage was huge, and if it wasnโ€™t the uniform size, shape or appearance it would be thrown out rather than sold at the market. She contrasted that cabbage with the home-grown organic variety planted and tended with no need for machinery and pesticides, saying โ€œIt represents time, effort, caring and an exchange with the earth.โ€ The home-grown cabbage was fresher, tastier and more nutritious but she pointed out that only the commercial cabbage was represented in official economic statistics of progress. 

Gareth Hughes and the late Jeanette Fitzsimons, 2018.
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What does our food really cost us? 

Weโ€™ve never had more volume of food produced globally than now but our connection to that food is at its lowest point in history. Are we looking at the bigger picture when we buy a cabbage or any item in our modern food system? The current paradigm is dominated by corporate giants, global trade networks and is dependent on huge inputs of energy and chemicals. While we might complain about the high cost of food in the supermarket as inflation rates rise, the really staggering cost is being paid by earth systems โ€“ soil, water and atmosphere. How we produce food is a major driver of climate change and biodiversity loss. Every year we draw down further on natureโ€™s balance sheet while too often only valuing the financial one.โ€ฏ 

Across my 20-year career as a progressive campaigner and Member of Parliament, food has remained as a major theme across all my mahi. Iโ€™ve led the engagement work for New Zealandโ€™s food rescue sector, been arrested dressed as Ronald McDonald, which triggered the fast-food giant to ditch GE-fed chicken, protested palm oil ships and Fonterraโ€™s gigantic use of coal, passed the Country of Origin of Food Act so Kiwis can know where their food has come from, and for our moana achieved a ban on shark finning and negotiated in government for cameras on fishing boats. Food touches every part of our lives, society and economy โ€“ how itโ€™s grown, how itโ€™s sold and who gets it. 

Iโ€™ve recently started working for the Wellbeing Economy Alliance, a global collaboration of organisations, individuals and governments to transform the economic system into one that prioritises shared well-being for people and the planet, as the Aotearoa country lead. A wellbeing economy would deliver purpose, nature, fairness and participation โ€“ what would that look like for food in New Zealand? 

Right now we have an unhealthy relationship with food. We export a volume of food thatโ€™s estimated to feed up to 40 million people yet one in five Kiwi kids live in households that experience food insecurity. Thereโ€™s real hunger and malnutrition in New Zealand. Despite the cost of food โ€“ highlighted recently by the Commerce Commissionโ€™s staggering estimate that $1 million dollars a day in excess profit is being taken from consumers by the supermarket duopoly โ€“ on average, each New Zealand household throws out an estimated $1520 worth of food every year. Collectively, thatโ€™s more than $3 billion worth of good food rotting away and contributing to climate change. Agricultural production is responsible for half of New Zealandโ€™s emissions, and dairyโ€™s impact on our rivers and lakes, and nitrate contamination of water supplies are well-known problems. Every year 192 million tonnes of our most precious resource โ€“ soil โ€“ washes out to sea as a result of our land-use practices. New Zealand still sprays chemicals banned in Europe and uses destructive bottom-trawling fishing techniques, smashing ancient deep sea coral. 

Making progress 

Despite the gloom, there are bright spots emerging. We see the growth of food cooperatives and farmersโ€™ markets where consumers can have a closer relationship with producers. The organics sector grew 20 percent between 2017 and 2020. Regenerative farming has become a household name, and more farmers are experimenting with reducing stocking rates and finding that their profits are increasing.  

Food-rescue organisations report 30 million meals were provided in the last year, turning an environmental problem into a social solution. Pฤtaka kai (free pantries) are popping up all over Aotearoa to facilitate sharing food. New products are hitting the market, from pea-protein meat alternatives and bread made from crickets to delicious oat milk brands. Growing numbers of New Zealanders are eating more plant-based meals for health, environmental or ethical reasons, and as a nation dependent on food and fibre exports, international consumersโ€™ desires to purchase food with lower climate and higher animal-welfare standards continue to drive change. 

It could be said that todayโ€™s problems were once yesterdayโ€™s solutions. Around the turn of the millennium, farmers were actively encouraged to convert to dairy and expand into regions totally unsuited to hit exponential growth targets. A focus on volume over value has come with real costs. As we deal with todayโ€™s problems โ€“ dependence on milk powder exports, environmental degradation, the cost of food, genuine food poverty, and reliance on unethical inputs like palm kernel expeller and phosphate from occupied Western Sahara โ€“ we need to ensure we arenโ€™t creating tomorrowโ€™s problems. 

What would a fair system look like? 

A wellbeing economy of food would look at broader outcomes than just growth rates or profit; it would value wider issues as well โ€“ resiliency, sustainability, fairness and access.โ€ฏ 

One positive example of this happening right now is the fact there is such a thing as a free lunch in New Zealand. Currently 220,000 kids are receiving free lunches in low-decile schools. The primary objective was to make sure children going without were fed, but what schools report are additional benefits for studentsโ€™ health and food awareness. Itโ€™s impacting their attendance, ability to learn and participate in class and is building a sense of school community. Itโ€™s a solution-multiplier that was avoided for many years just on the question of cost, and is delivering significant benefits. Ideally we will build on the success and ensure the food used is organic, grown locally and that students can connect with growers. 

Another example is Wakatลซ, a company owned by 4000 Mฤori families in the Nelson region. Wakatลซ has a 500-year strategy focused on their tikanga, or values, the taonga that is the land and water, and manaakitanga for the people. Kono, their food branch, is one of the regionโ€™s largest employers and exports to more than 80 countries. 

Imagine if New Zealand and our food system had a 500-year strategy! We have made a start โ€“ factoring in well-being in our national budgets, and now we need to do that in all the decisions government and business make. How we grow a cabbage, produce milk or catch a fish matters more than just the quarterly profit and loss statement.

I believe thinking long term and holistically from a wellbeing perspective would encourage regenerative, restorative agriculture and food sovereignty. Tangata whenua would be able to harvest kai from healthy rivers and seas. Weโ€™d see more food forests and community gardens. We would eat food in season and we would know its provenance and how it was produced. Food poverty would be consigned to history and nutritious organic food would be available for all โ€“ not just those who can afford it. Letโ€™s move from just counting commercial cabbages to valuing everything that matters.   


Gareth Hughes is a former Green Party MP and the country lead for the Wellbeing Economy Alliance: weall.org. 

Banned pesticide impacting New Zealand youth

An insecticide called chlorpyrifos, banned in the US but still widely used here, is again under the spotlight due to risks of exposure in New Zealand children. An alliance of NGOs made an appeal to government on 5th June (World Environment Day) for regulators to start an urgent reassessment of chlorpyrifos โ€“ the next step towards tighter controls. The chemical is currently undergoing a UN process for a global ban because of its environmental and human health impacts.   

โ€œChildren are particularly at risk from exposure to even tiny amounts of chlorpyrifos, such as residues in foodโ€, said Dr Meriel Watts of Pesticide Action Network.  

Dr Chris Hill of the EPA says chlorpyriphos has been identified on the Environmental Protection Authorityโ€™s priority chemicals list for reassessment. โ€œWorking through our priority chemical list is dependent on our assessment of need and our availability of resource.ย  When considering a potential reassessment, we look at the information available about the substance and about its use in New Zealand.ย  We also consider the technical evaluations of international regulators. If overseas information suggests we act sooner, we will.โ€

Fashion: the good, the bad, and the greenwashed

If youโ€™re feeling overwhelmed and bewildered about what constitutes planet-friendly fashion, youโ€™re not alone. Claire Brunette unpicks the multilayered environmental and ethical issues within the fashion industry.

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Clothing is powerful and necessary, and a handwoven burlap sack just doesnโ€™t do it for most people these days. The right clothes can help get you the job you want, keep you safe, change how you see yourself and how others see you; they can be a source of joy.

If clothing production ceased tomorrow, there would be enough clothing in the world to keep us going for a very long time, but we keep producing more than we can use. Itโ€™s getting harder and harder to process the wall of information about clothing that is out there. What is actively environmentally harmful? What is exploiting the people making the fabric? What seems sustainable, and says it is, but shimmering below the surface has the nasty tint of greenwashing?

An oft-repeated statement is that the most sustainable piece of clothing is the item you already own, but what if that item is releasing tiny microplastics into the ocean every time you wash it? Microplastics are now found in our kaimoana, our honey, our salt and our blood. A report published by Scion in 2019 showed that 87 per cent of microplastics found on Auckland beaches were likely to be from fabric fibres released during laundering.

So how do we get dressed in the morning in a world thatโ€™s tugging us in different directions? Information is empowering, so before you buy anything, especially anything new, letโ€™s explore fabrics. Itโ€™s important to note that no fabric is perfect and all have their own unique impact. It is still an essential tenet of sustainability to use what you have and to seek items that are already circulating.

Synthetics 

The big bads of fabric. Derived from fossil fuels and irresistibly cheap to make. Polyester, nylon, acrylic and their ilk are to be avoided whenever possible. They continue their dirty work post-production, shedding microplastic fibres into the marine environment every time they are washed. Many vegan alternatives are simply plastic. Companies are rushing to make garments out of recycled polyester, turning plastic bottles into tracksuits, but as these items are still capable of fibre shedding, itโ€™s best to save your recycled polyester purchases for items that donโ€™t need to be washed, such as shoes.

Semi-synthetics 

Viscose, rayon and bamboo all come under the umbrella of semi-synthetic cellulose. The wood pulp, bamboo or other raw plant material is put through rigorous, chemical-intensive processes to break the fibres down into a product that can be spun and woven into fabric. The resulting fabric is biodegradable, breathable and silky on the skin, making it extremely popular with consumers.  

Unfortunately, the environmental and human cost of producing cellulose is high. According to the non-profit environmental organisation Canopy, 3.2 billion trees are cut down every year for cellulose production, up to 30 per cent of which is from ancient and endangered forests. The Changing Markets Foundation released a report in 2017 revealing that viscose factories in Indonesia, China and India were dumping highly toxic wastewater into local waterways, destroying marine life and exposing workers and local populations to harmful chemicals. Awareness around these issues has increased, and manufacturers have been making changes, so when purchasing cellulosic fabrics, look for brand names, such as EcoVero, that encourage responsible, closed-loop production. 

Flora Collingwood-Norris is an ethical, low-impact knitwear designer based in Scotland, and a champion of visible mending โ€“ a technique where repair work is deliberately made into a feature.

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Natural 

Cotton 

Soft and smooth, cotton allows air to circulate, keeps you cool in summer and is an ideal inner layer in winter. We love cotton! It also is an incredibly thirsty crop using often inefficient irrigation systems that divert water from natural sources. According to WWF,  cotton cultivation severely degrades soil quality, leading to expansion into new areas and the attendant destruction of habitat. Cotton production is heavy on pesticide use, threatening the surrounding ecology of cotton-growing areas and the people that live there. It is hard to forget the dark past of cotton production, and bonded and child slavery are still of concern today. 

GMO cotton has long been touted as an alternative and now accounts for close to 100 per cent of cotton grown in Australia. It is designed to increase both insect resistance and herbicide tolerance (so products such as glyphosate can be applied for a longer period of time) while reducing the need for water. An obviously controversial choice. 

If you want fresh cotton in your wardrobe, organic is the best choice. Check for labels with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification. GOTS is a non-profit that prohibits the use of GMO cotton while maintaining high organic, labour and welfare standards.  

Most recycled cotton comes from pre-consumer waste, scraps and excess from factories. These are shredded and woven into new fabrics, which often have a pleasing speckled appearance. There are innovations that are creating a pulp out of those scraps by dissolving them with a solvent, so itโ€™s worth looking into how the garment you are buying is recycled, but luckily most producers have this information prominently displayed on their websites.  

Linen 

Breathable, moth-resistant and durable, linen is grown from flax (Linum usitatissimum โ€“ a different species from Phormium tenax, our native harakeke), a resilient, ancient plant that can thrive in poor soils and requires a fraction of the water that cotton does. Organic linen is even better, as nitrates and toxic dyes arenโ€™t used in its production. GOTS certification is also available for linen. Overall, linen is an excellent choice. The con is that all this comes at a premium price. 

Wool  

Our beloved national fibre is natural, warm and biodegradable. But is it sustainable? There are currently over one billion sheep in the world. Thatโ€™s far too many to be considered planet conscious, and sheep farming is resource-intensive. According to Circumfauna, who do research on the impact of animal-derived materials, more than 367 times the amount of land is required for wool than for cotton in Australia, and an Australian wool-knit sweater emits about 27 times more greenhouse gas emissions than a cotton-knit sweater. The wool industry comes with a host of issues relevant to those interested in animal welfare. If you are looking for wool, check for accredited or organic wool to mitigate concerns. It may be easier for hand knitters to trace their wool through small suppliers.  Recycled wool is often blended with polyester for durability, so beware. There is nothing like the warmth of wool, so consider looking for second-hand items to keep the chill off.   

Silk  

The fanciest fabric of all, silk biodegrades and keeps rural artisans in business in an almost zero-waste industry. Unfortunately, itโ€™s a fussy fabric to maintain, with the care instructions usually demanding dry cleaning. Its animal welfare credentials are nil, thanks to the traditional step of boiling the silkworms alive to separate the silk from the worm. Sericulture requires very little land use but unfortunately is water-intensive. The dyeing process is where toxic chemicals can shimmy their way into production, so look for naturally dyed items. New alternatives, such as peace silk (where the silkworms arenโ€™t killed), spider silk and silk made from fruit fibre are being developed and offer exciting possibilities for the future.  

Second time round 

Cost can be a significant barrier to accessing responsibly produced clothes for many. Making beautiful clothes in a way that takes the planet and its people into account is unavoidably expensive. Natural, organic fibres cost more than synthetic, and fair labour costs more than exploitation.  

Purchasing second-hand clothing is a lower cost option, but generally requires a larger investment in time. Op shops can sometimes be a challenging place to shop as the racks are becoming increasingly filled with the poorly constructed, synthetic-heavy clothes of recent years. There are a number of people selling second-hand clothing online, curated according to particular needs or aesthetics. However, for some people, the stigma of second-hand clothing is hard to shake. And if you are at either end of the size spectrum, finding quality second-hand clothing can be close to impossible. Itโ€™s easy to see the allure of shops that stock your size, in your style, at a price that wonโ€™t eat too far into the weekly shop.  

Hamilton-based sustainable fashion label KoiNoโ€™s garments are made to order and range from size 8 to size 28.

Slow wins the race 

Where the sustainable industry fails, where fashion fails in general, is in providing for a plus-sized market. Amanda Matthews, owner of KoiNo, a Hamilton-based, size-inclusive, sustainable fashion label, agrees that many brands donโ€™t see the value in extending their sizing. โ€œIncreasing a size range to include plus size is not always as simple as extending sizing by taking standard sizes and making them bigger. Often new patterns are needed, with adjustments made to make the style fit well on a bigger body.โ€  

To avoid this problem, and its associated costs, Amanda bases her patterns on an XL, grading up or down from there, as she finds this creates a better fit on a wider range of sizes. This isnโ€™t the only clever model that Amanda has adopted. Her garments are made to order, essentially eliminating unsold pieces. โ€œI donโ€™t need to invest in making every size in every style in every colour. I only make what is needed.โ€ 

In Aotearoa, we are lucky to have a raft of fashion designers who are eco-conscious and innovative, from I Used To Be, who make frankly adorable bags out of discarded pool toys, to the chic Kowtow, whose clothes read as a love letter to the rain-fed, fair-trade organic cotton they are made from.  

Change is coming to fashion. Technology is firmly focused on future solutions. It wonโ€™t be long until we are wearing mushroom leather and lab-grown wool. Until then, choose your clothes wisely and love them well.   


Claire Brunette is a writer, worrier and textile enthusiast who lives in Tฤmaki Makaurau. 

Kลซmara recipes from Hapฤซ

Kลซmara is something we need in our community. Itโ€™s an abundance crop, says Gretta Carney, owner of Hapฤซ Ora organic cafรฉ and mฤra in Ahuririโ€“Napier. She shares some of her favourite kลซmara recipes.


Stuffed kลซmara

This is a Hapฤซ favourite. Salt baking the kลซmara seals the skin, allowing the insides to bake into a melt-in-your-mouth mash. 
Serves 4
4 medium kลซmara
Fine sea salt
1 medium onion
4 cloves garlic
Oil, for frying
4 large leafy greens (kale, silverbeet, collard, puha, watercress)
ยฝ cup cream cheese (dairy or nut)
Salt and pepper
ยฝ cup sour cream (dairy or nut)
Karengo salt
  1. Scrub each kลซmara well and liberally sprinkle the wet skin with fine sea salt.ย 
  1. Place the kลซmara on a baking dish. Donโ€™t crowd them too much, as they need a bit of room for the skin to crisp up. Bake in a moderate oven at 180ยฐC until soft to touch โ€“ about 30-45 minutes depending on the size.ย ย 
  1. Gently fry up some diced onion and thinly sliced garlic (we use deodorised coconut oil for most of our frying). Once the onions have softened, add some finely chopped leafy greens from your garden. We mostly use kale but puha would also be good. Only fry the greens for a minute so they have softened but still retain their bright colour, and turn everything out into a bowl.ย 
  1. Cut a strip off the top of each kลซmara and carefully scoop out the flesh leaving enough intact so the kลซmara holds its shape. Put the kลซmara flesh into the bowl with the onion, garlic and greens and mash together. Add the cream cheese (we use our mushroom or cultured cashew cream cheese), mix to combine and season to taste. Stuff the mash into the kลซmara shells, piling it up high.ย 
  1. Reheat as required and top with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of karengo salt to serve.ย 

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Roroi

This traditional pudding can be made with little or no sweetener given the sweetness of the kลซmara.  
Serves 4-6
2 large kลซmara
Honey โ€“ a couple of tablespoons

  1. Preheat oven to 180ยฐC. Grease a shallow baking dish with butter or coconut oil.
  2. Peel and grate kลซmara. Press kลซmara into the greased baking dish. Drizzle or dab with honey.
  3. Cover with a lid or tin foil and bake for an hour until the kลซmara has the texture of a soft mash.
  4. Serve hot or cold, with cream or custard.

Kumara canapรฉs 

Kลซmara can be turned into a versatile dietary friendly canapรฉ base. Use medium-sized kumara for bite-sized canapรฉs. 
  1. Cut kลซmara into 2mm slices, skin on.ย 
  1. Place onto a baking tray and brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake ย 
    in a moderate oven at 180ยฐC until just cooked and slightly browned.ย 
  1. Allow to cool to room temperature and top with your favourite canapรฉ toppings. We have been sending them out with smashed blue cheese topped with pan toasted walnuts in a honey reduction and dusted with toasted thyme salt, but you could also use slivers of roast beef with chutney, or pesto and roasted cauliflower.ย 
 

Grettaโ€™s roroi and stuffed kลซmara recipes have been reproduced with permission from:

Te Mahi Mฤra Hua Parakore: A Mฤori Food Sovereignty Handbook by Jessica Hutchings
Te Mahi Oneone Hua Parakore: A Mฤori Soil Sovereignty and Wellbeing Handbook, edited by Jessica Hutchings and Jo Smith.
jessicahutchings.org

The history of GE in New Zealand

Bonnie Flaws investigates New Zealand’s ongoing debate on the regulation of genetic modification

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The question of whether we should allow genetic engineering in New Zealand has been raging for almost as long as the technology has been around โ€“ since the 1970s. By the late 1990s and early 2000s, the sentiment among the public was decidedly anti-GMO, with protest a regular feature of the political landscape, including famous hฤซkoi that travelled from Northland to Wellington. Now the topic is in the headlines again after the Productivity Commission recommended in its 2021 report that New Zealandโ€™s strict laws regulating genetic engineering ought to be reviewed, in part because the techniques used have evolved.

GM, GMO, GE, GEd โ€“ what exactly does it all mean?

  • New Zealand law defines a genetically modified organism (GMO) as any organism in which any of the genes or other genetic material have been modified by, inherited or otherwise derived through any number of replications, by in vitro techniques.
  • Genetic engineering (GE) is the use of in vitro techniques to make genetically modified organisms.
  • Genetic modification (GM) is used interchangeably with the term genetic engineering by experts in the field.
  • Transgenic techniques, what we traditionally think of as genetic engineering, use a foreign โ€œgene of interestโ€ that has been cultured and inserted into a cell of the host organism. Today, itโ€™s more common to hear about gene editing (GEd) techniques, such as CRISPR-Cas9, TALENs and ZFNs.
  • Gene editing (GEd) techniques have been around since the late 70s, but some tools (nucleases) like CRISPRCas9, TALENs and ZFNs are new.

The use of language in the GM debate 

The language used to describe genetic engineering has often been contested by those who would like to see it deregulated. For example, itโ€™s been argued that conventional and selective breeding of plants is a form of genetic engineering. More recently, it has been argued that the biochemical processes of gene editing are similar to those that cause natural mutations.  

Jack Heinemann, a professor at the School of Biological Sciences at the University of Canterbury, who promotes regulation, says the โ€œequivalence to natureโ€ argument is a semantic obfuscation, but a High Court ruling in 2014 made it unambiguous. New Zealand became the first country to make it explicit in law that gene editing is a technique of genetic modification, meaning it must be regulated. Heinemann was the expert witness in this case. This ruling hinged on the ability of the technique to make changes at scale that wouldnโ€™t happen in nature, he says. 

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A potted history 

This tension between those for and against regulation has been a continuous thread in the national discourse, with the public generally wanting controls, and industry and parts of academia wanting more freedom to experiment. 

After a field trial moratorium was lifted in 1987, the public became increasingly agitated about GE experimentation, particularly around the issue of contamination of agricultural crops, and demand for tighter regulation grew. The first big breakthrough for activists came with the 1996 Hazardous Substances and New Organisms (HSNO) Act, leading to the creation of the Environmental Risk Management Authority (ERMA). This was the body responsible for overseeing importation, development, field trials and releases of GMOs. The act allowed scientists to experiment with GM techniques in the lab and in contained field trials. 

But GE experiments began to cross lines that many people found distasteful and unethical. The worry that GMOs might escape from the lab and contaminate and self-propagate in the environment, or that food with foreign genes inserted might end up on their plate kept activists like Zelka Grammer motivated.  

โ€œYou have this whole nefarious history of incompetence and slackness, and then even worse, MAF and MPI not adequately monitoring to catch significant breaches of ERMAโ€™s rules of approval,โ€ says the chair of GE-free Tai Tokerau. โ€œPeople like Stefan Browning from the Green party and local orchardists had to go and find secret field trial locations, take photographic evidence, march down to MAF and MPI and say, โ€˜WTF! Why are these brassicas flowering out of doors when itโ€™s not allowed under the conditions of approval?โ€™ It was shut down in disgrace over and over and over.โ€ 

There was a strong feeling that regulators were not adequately monitoring trials, and the rapid development of the biotech industry was seen as a threat to New Zealandโ€™s agricultural sector. Despite this, industry and academic voices were keen to see the technology liberated for use in both the biomedical and agricultural spheres. Without deregulation, New Zealand would be left behind in the technological and economic race. 

Organisations such as the Royal Society Te Apฤrangi, Plant & Food Research, Scion, NZBio, Malaghan Institute of Medical Research, Agcarm (New Zealand Association for Animal Health and Crop Protection) and Federated Farmers have all advocated for greater deregulation of genetic engineering over the years. 

A petition signed by 92,000 Kiwis called for a Royal Commission to investigate and establish a way forward for the controversial technology. This was done, and in 2000 the Royal Commission on Genetic Modification validated many of the concerns voices by activists. The overall recommendation was to โ€œproceed with cautionโ€, while also rejecting the unrestricted use of genetic engineering. Within a year, a voluntary moratorium was put in place โ€“ all in all a landmark year for people power.  

Several memorable hฤซkoi in 2001 and 2003 followed the Commissionโ€™s findings. Mฤori played a big part in their organisation but the movement was broad-based and many New Zealanders took part. Groups like GE-Free New Zealand and Mothers Against Genetic Engineering (MAdGE) had a prominent public voice. In 2015 the Northland and Hastings regions were successful in asserting their own โ€œGE freeโ€ status in their district plans. 

It is clear that everyone is in it for the money. The risks can be dismissed by appealing to the benefits, and when the benefits are not forthcoming, the promises have to be kept alive. Biotechnology is the south sea bubble at the end of the millennium.

A quote from โ€œThe Biotechnology Bubbleโ€, an article by Mae-Wan Ho, Hartmut Meyer and Joe Cummins, originally published in The Ecologist and reprinted in the July 1999 issue of Organic NZ.

However in 2012, CRISPR, a new gene editing tool, had been discovered. Proponents argued it was more precise than transgenics, and led to changes similar to what might happen naturally. Proponents said the technology should be set free to fulfil its potential. It could be applied not only in food production, but also in medical research, pest control and even to tackle climate change. 

At the same time, a growing body of scientific literature showed that gene editing gave rise to numerous unintended genetic mutations, and was not as precise as claimed. The Sustainability Council of New Zealand took the Environmental Protection Authority (formerly ERMA) to court to challenge industry claims that gene editing was not genetic engineering. 

The 2014 High Court ruling, which determined gene editing was legally a form of genetic modification, also established that the rate and specificity of change was what made the technology risky. 

Key dates in the history of GE

1973First recombinant bacteria is developed in the US.
1978The New Zealand government places a moratorium on field releases that remains in place for 10 years.
1980sThe early 1980s sees GE technologies begin to be applied in laboratories in New Zealand, largely for biological and medical research purposes.
1988The moratorium on field release is lifted and an Interim Assessment Group (IAG) is established for the field testing and release of genetically modified organisms.
1996Hazardous Substances and New Organisms Act 1996 passes in law, which leads to the establishment of the Environmental Risk Management Authority New Zealand (ERMA).
1999The Independent Biotechnology Advisory Committee is established to assess and provide independent advice on the use of GE technology.
2000The Royal Commission on Genetic Modification is established and a voluntary moratorium put in place.
2008Activists chop down GE pine trees at a Scion forestry research site near Rotorua in 2008 and 2012. 
2011ERMA becomes the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA).
2012CRISPR is invented, adding a new tool to the GE toolbox. 
2014The High Court rules that gene editing is a form of genetic modification.
2015Both the Hastings and Northland regions become GE free. 
2016Auckland becomes GE free.
2021Productivity Commission report recommends a full review of HSNO.

The Mฤori world view

Mฤori have largely been vocal opponents of GE from the beginning. โ€œThe issue is that using GE will have an impact on the mauri of our food and the soil,โ€ says Lahni Wharerau, kaiwhakahaere of Te Waka Kai Ora, the National Mฤori Organics Authority. โ€œMauri is what gives us life force and underpins wellbeing. GE interferes with that.โ€  

Wider news reporting since the Productivity Commissionโ€™s report shows that attitudes arenโ€™t set in stone. Maui Hudson, associate professor at the University of Waikato, said a national survey of Mฤori on the issue of genetic modification and gene editing was done last year, showing a wide variety of perspectives were held. โ€œFor some people itโ€™s all the same, whether itโ€™s genetic modification or gene editing, while for others they get that there is a difference and that may change the way you think about it.โ€ However, a โ€œproceed with cautionโ€ approach was still valued. โ€œIn the context of the conversations weโ€™ve had, there is no appetite for a totally unregulated environment for gene editing.โ€ 

The Productivity Commission and the global push for GE deregulation 

The New Zealand Productivity Commission last year called for a complete review of HSNO, as well as the legislative framework and institutional arrangements governing genetic engineering, suggesting separate legislation or a standalone regulator. 

โ€œTechnologies have moved on significantly over the last 20 years. In particular, advances in gene editing have produced technologies such as CRISPR, which enable much faster and more precise modification than earlier tools,โ€ it says in its 2021 report. 

Once again, proponents have seized the opportunity to promote deregulation. Jack Heinemann says the push for deregulation is happening globally. Pulling no punches,  
he calls it an orchestrated campaign by vested interests โ€“ industry and those parts of academia aligned with industry outcomes โ€“ that follows the same pattern everywhere, drowning out voices of scientific doubt. 

As a geneticist, he is immensely positive about the benefit to society of regulated genetic engineering in the lab, but says both the utopian promise of genetic engineering โ€“ how itโ€™s promoted to the public and the regulators โ€“ and the risk profile remain unchanged since regulations were put in place. What gene editing does is change the scale and speed at which interventions can be made in nature, he says. โ€œThat is precisely what makes a technology risky.โ€ 

President of GE-Free New Zealand Claire Bleakley says the HSNO regulations follow a clear pathway to ensure products are safe. โ€œBecause GMOs are living organisms they might contaminate the indigenous flora and fauna, the economic crops, or have serious health effects. Our biggest concern is that the Productivity Commission report was basically minimising the dangers of GMOs and highlighting the simplicity of them.โ€ 

Sociologist Jodie Bruning agrees the report obfuscates risk, and doesnโ€™t represent what the bulk of submissions had been asking for โ€“ just two out of 80 submissions (both from the medical industry) that fed into the Productivity Commissionโ€™s 2021 report argued that HSNO should be opened up. 

The main fear Jack Heinemann, Claire Bleakley and Jodie Bruning convey is that without the appropriate checks and balances, and careful scientific oversight, niche experimentation with the ability to change organisms at pace and scale would proliferate, and with them, unintended consequences. 

โ€œRegulation is not a ban. It isnโ€™t stopping anything. Good science is like good democracy โ€“ it needs accountability and transparency. No dark corners,โ€ Bruning says.  


Horopito: how to use our hottest native herb

Herbalist Sara Mertens celebrates our hottest native herb and peppers us with ideas on how to use it in the kitchen and medicine cabinet. 

If you are unfamiliar with the native flora of Aotearoaโ€™s bush and go walking with somebody who wants to treat you to a โ€œtaste of the bushโ€ sensation, they will undoubtedly invite you to nibble on a leaf from an attractively coloured shrub. A nibble is all it takes! It will be an unforgettable moment as your taste buds encounter a peppery punch not unlike chilli spice.

Horopito, our native pepper tree boasts an ancient endemic New Zealand genus, Pseudowintera, and a primitive flower structure originating from the Winteraceae plant family. Unsurprisingly, introduced animals, such as wild deer find the hot-tasting leaves unpalatable,  a quality that has nurtured its longevity in our forests. Similarly, it is fungi resistant and insects are not attracted to it.  

There are four endemic horopito species. Pseudowintera colorata (pictured above) is a shrub variety that grows up to 3.5m tall and has distinctly identifiable foliage of red splotches on the topside of the pale green leaf, with a blue-grey underside. P. axillaris is not as peppery,  has no colourful markings and grows 7m tall. P. colorata and P. axillaris are often found growing in the same regions but in different parts of the bush due to P. colorata thriving in areas of adequate light to enhance its highly coloured leaves, and P. axillaris preferring cold, damp conditions. The other two horopito species are harder to find. P inseparata is critically endangered and only grows in Northland and P. traversii is found on the West Coast of the South Island and near Nelson. 

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Apothecary 

P. colorata is known for its medicinal uses, and forms an important part of rongoฤ Mฤori. The fresh leaves can be chewed or simmered in water to make a medicinal decoction drink for tooth and stomach aches. Circulatory and respiratory conditions, such as coughs, colds and asthma, were once managed with this warming herb. It can also be used topically to treat skin diseases. The leaves and tender branches were steeped in water and used in a lotion for ringworm, and the bruised foliage was applied as a warming poultice to wounds and joint injuries.  

In the early 1980s, University of Canterbury research isolated the active constituent polygodial, which gives the distinct peppery taste to the foliage and has strong anti-fungal and antibacterial properties. It compares favourably to pharmaceutically compounded antifungal medicine, and can be used to treat  Candida albicans, which causes infections such as thrush. Horopito has also been effective against other fungal organisms, such as Trichophyton, which causes ringworm, athleteโ€™s foot and fungal nails.  The pain killing action, analgesic, of the leaves is attributed to one of their 29 essential oils, called eugenol. 

Marlborough-based company Kolorex use horopito as their hero herb ingredient, and grow it to use in a range of efficacious antifungal products. 

Garden to pantry 

Grow horopito in your garden and the birds will love you when it bears its dark red to black berries in autumn. Meanwhile, you can be adventurous with the leaves in your kitchen. The peppery action of our native bush spice has found its way into the condiment range of chefs โ€“ what better way to โ€œlet food be your medicine, and medicine be your foodโ€ in the words of the great Hippocrates. You can dry them at home and grind them to use as a substitute for ground black pepper. It will take meat-rub seasoning to another level, and refreshingly uplift your favourite hummus For a ready-to-use horopito supply, visit Forest Gourmetโ€™s website.  

Horopito is a botanical example of the landโ€™s way of caring for us and providing a resource for health in life. Let it be reciprocal where we acknowledge how te whenua (the land) and ourselves are interconnected โ€“ if we care for the land, the land provides in return. 


Sara Mertensโ€ฏis a registered medical herbalist living in Rangiora (symphonyofherbs.nz). 

Investigating Aotearoa’s e-waste footprint

Electronic waste is the worldโ€™s fastest growing waste stream, and in Aotearoa most of it ends up in landfill where it can leach toxins into soil and waterways. The good news is that we are taking steps to reduce our e-waste footprint. Bonnie Flaws investigates.ย 

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Mobile phones, old computers, toasters and jugs, whiteware, batteries, televisions, gadgets, even childrenโ€™s toys. Weโ€™ve probably all gone through numerous editions of each of these products in our lifetime. I run a little inventory and establish that I am on my fifth mobile phone, my fifth computer, and probably my fourth television. Iโ€™m only on my second GHD though after 20 years of hair straightening โ€“ pretty good, I reckon. My 30-year-old dishwasher is working but itโ€™s falling apart, and it wonโ€™t be long before Iโ€™ll be replacing it. 

Electronic waste is increasing globally, and here in New Zealand itโ€™s estimated we produce about 80,000 tonnes a year, of which only 2000 tonnes is recycled. โ€œItโ€™s a significant problem,โ€ says AUT senior lecturer in the School of Future Environments, Jeff Seadon. And itโ€™s everyoneโ€™s problem โ€“ itโ€™s estimated each person produces about 21 kg every year, he tells me. 

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What is it and why is there so much of it? 

E-waste comprises โ€œanything with a plug or batteryโ€ that has reached the end of its life, Jeff explains. As the world has become increasingly digitised, the amount of e-waste continues to pile up and it has become the fastest growing waste stream in the world. Another culprit is โ€˜planned obsolescenceโ€™,  a business strategy with an ethics problem.  

Manufacturers want repeat customers and so longevity is not a priority. It costs manufacturers money to repair products, and itโ€™s often cheaper to simply replace broken items. Itโ€™s also profitable to dictate who can do repairs, sometimes under threat of nullifying the warranty if something is repaired by an unauthorised party. 

โ€œThere is now a backlash occurring, and as a result, manufacturers are having to change their products so that there is a โ€˜right to repairโ€™,โ€ Jeff says. The โ€˜right to repairโ€™ concept is becoming more widespread. Consumer NZ says itโ€™s going mainstream, with companies like Apple making supportive noises, and legislators in Australia and the United Kingdom forcing manufacturers to repair cars through independent garages and supply spare parts for gadgets. Minister for the Environment David Parker is a fan and Kiwi businesses could soon be legally bound to ensure old devices can be repaired too. 

Jeff says this policy may force a rethink. โ€œProducers are thinking, โ€˜If we have to repair it, that will cost us a fortune and that will come back on us. So, therefore we need to make things that are more useableโ€™.โ€ 

Environmental and health impacts 

E-waste contains a variety of minerals and elements, including precious metals and heavy metals. Many of these are contaminants, says University of Canterbury professor of environmental chemistry Brett Robinson. Elements like lead, cadmium, mercury and copper bind very strongly to soils where they stay forever or are taken up by plants. 

But Brett says there are many other chemical elements that are not well understood โ€“ such as gallium and indium, which are used in the manufacture of flat panel displays. It is not known just how mobile they are in soil or how harmful they can be. At some level, all of these contaminants are toxic to microbes and plants, he says. 

Some types of flame retardants that are used in plastics on electronic devices are also extremely toxic and very mobile, so can leach into groundwater. Air pollution can also be a problem. โ€œIf e-waste is burned, you get chemicals called dioxins forming โ€“ the same chemical that caused environmental damage in Vietnam with Agent Orange.โ€ 

Brett says most of what is collected at recycling centres usually goes overseas to places like Japan, Singapore and South Korea, where it can be recycled more cost-effectively.  

Sadly, in New Zealand most e-waste ends up in landfill. There are upsides and downsides to this, he adds. On the downside, resources are being lost โ€“ there is far more gold, silver and palladium in landfills than there is in virgin mines, such as the one in Waihi. On the upside, since the 1990s, landfills have been required to be sealed, so the e-waste doesnโ€™t leach out, although some of it ends up as leachate which is collected and reprocessed by the operator, he says. 

Farm dumps 

The biggest problem in Aoteroa is the amount of e-waste illegally disposed of on farm dumps, of which there are estimated to be about 30,000 around the country, Jeff tells me. โ€œItโ€™s very hard to regulate because if you have a little valley in the back of beyond, who is going to be there to check it?โ€  

Unlike landfills, these dumps do leach. As water passes through valleys, decaying metals pass into the water system and into vegetable and animal life, where it accumulates. Some elements can also get into groundwater, he says. Their accumulation in humans and animals via water and food can lead to side effects including kidney and bone disease, central nervous system damage and elevated blood pressure. 

Product stewardship for e-waste will become mandatory 

Spark, Vodafone and 2degrees have a recycling programme for phones called Re:Mobile, and there are collection points for e-waste recycling in many places that you can find out about through your local council or at ewaste.org.nz. However, options for responsible disposal of electronic waste are still limited. But this is set to change. 

The Ministry for the Environment is currently in the process of setting up a product stewardship scheme under the Waste Minimisation Act, and e-waste is one of the priority waste streams. Once in place, it will oblige producers to recover e-waste at the end of life and recycle it. There is no date set yet for its implementation. 

What we do know is that it will be a user-pays system. โ€œWhen you go and purchase a piece of electronic equipment covered under the scheme, youโ€™ll pay an extra amount that will pay for its recovery at the end. The scheme will build up money to capture goods at the end and it should be self-supporting,โ€ Brett says.    

Not-for-profit TechCollect NZ was established by a group of global technology companies to support the development of a regulated product stewardship scheme in New Zealand, and is working with the government on delivering the scheme at present.  

Auckland based company Computer Recycling will likely to be collecting much of this waste once the scheme is up and running.  Director Patrick Moynahan has imported a high-tech piece of kit called Blue Box. One of only eight in the world, this machine will increase the amount of e-waste the country currently recycles to 5000 tonnes per year, he says. โ€œThat will go quite a long way to recycle the โ€˜hard to recycleโ€™ material โ€“ things like flat screens, small electronics, laptops. Weโ€™ll be able to handle the vast majority of what New Zealand produces,โ€ he says. Hard-to-recycle material is anything that canโ€™t be disassembled by hand,  
he explains. 

The $3 million machine, a 40 foot container-sized shredding unit, operates in a negative vacuum environment, meaning nasties like mercury and cadmium will be contained and the recycling process wonโ€™t contribute to the contamination of the workers or the land. The metals will be exported as commodities, where they will be reused in manufactured goods. It also separates out the precious metals into pure commodity streams that can be sold back to refineries. 

Computer Recycling collects e-waste from all over the country at one-day-events via business networks and a fleet of trucks and vans that collect waste. โ€œWe also work with general waste companies to encourage the collection of e-waste at the point of landfill,โ€ Patrick says. The company will be working with TechCollect and companies implementing the mandatory product stewardship programmes when the time comes.  

But Patrick doesnโ€™t think it will be realistically operational for two to three years. Once the regulation is in place, the e-waste recycling sector will expand significantly especially with the help of Blue Box, he says. 

โ€œWe are hoping to import a few more machines [for other e-waste streams] in a couple of years. If stewardship is introduced and there is a conscious effort to educate the public then there is no reason why we canโ€™t hit 50โ€“60 per cent recycling of waste. Right now, weโ€™re are at about 2 per cent,โ€ Patrick says. 


Keep your garden growing

Tips and tasks for the March/April mฤra,
by Diana Noonan

In the cooler months itโ€™s tempting to wind down the edible beds, but try sowing and growing all over again for months of bountiful harvest at a time when store-bought veges command a premium price.  

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Ki te hฤmama popora te tangata e kore e mau te ika!  
He who yawns, catches no fish! 

Starting all over again

The summer mฤra can be disappointing, especially if youโ€™ve been away from home over the holidays and your edible beds have suffered from a lack of attention. But the good news is you can put the past behind you and start growing all over again with cool-season veges โ€“ some of which will be ready to harvest in just three to four weeks (see our suggestions below). If you live in a warm region, sow some baby root crops too, as they will keep growing, albeit slowly, almost right through the year. 

Undercover agents

Greenhouses provide a whole new cool-season growing space once summer crops have been harvested. Make the most of this by replenishing the greenhouse soil with organic compost and manures, and sowing quick-turnover greens such as โ€˜Fiji Feathersโ€™ peas. A semi-leafless pea with crisp feathered shoots and tasty tendrils, it is ready to snip and use just two to three weeks from sowing. Mesclun seed mixes will also come away quickly when sown undercover, and you can double their value by teasing out individual seedlings and planting them into their own spot in the greenhouse where they can grow on to maturity. In very cool regions, where the summer undercover harvest can linger on until mid-autumn, sow and plant into containers which can be placed under cloches until there is space available for them in the greenhouse.

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Extend the season

In order for autumn-sown seeds and cool-season seedlings to be strong, healthy, and potentially productive throughout the winter and early spring months, itโ€™s important to give them a quick start now, in warm beds. If autumns are damp in your part of the country, and you are not already growing in raised beds, mound up your soil by 10โ€“20 cm. This will keep the ground temperature sufficiently damp but not wet, and therefore increase its temperature. If autumn conditions are warm, or if you live in a drought-prone region, use a mulch to lock in moisture and control weeds. If your autumns are on the cool side, skip the mulch (which shuts out the sunโ€™s warmth) and weed by hand. 

Use cloches to harvest the autumn sun. While they can be store-bought, you can also make your own by bending over hoops of supple willow or number eight wire, and pushing the ends into the ground. Cover with recycled clear plastic (check out furniture stores for this valuable resource), and hold it in place with rocks. Prop the cloche open with a forked stick on very warm days so your plants donโ€™t overheat. To make a mini cloche, cut the base off a PET bottle, and push the cut end into the ground. Remove the top to allow for ventilation, so your young plants donโ€™t cook, or leave it on in cold weather to increase the heat. 

Sow me now

In all but the coldest regions, sow the following:
Veges: Radish, daikon radish, autumn mesclun mix, Asian greens, winter spinach, broad beans. In warm regions only: Carrot, beetroot, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale.
Herbs: Chervil, chives, coriander, rocket, spring onions.
Flowers: Hollyhock, nasturtium, phacelia, spring bulbs, viola.
Note: In very cold regions, sow quick-growing pea shoots and microgreens under cover.

Transplant me now

Veges (by February in cooler regions and March in warmer regions): Brassicas โ€“ especially spring cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli (including purple winter-sprouting broccoli), celery, celeriac, leeks, perennial beet, silver beet, winter lettuce.
Herbs: Most woody herbs including rosemary, sage, thyme, marjoram, and already-established potted lavender. Hardy leafy herbs including parsley, parcel and sorrel.
Flowers: Winter colour (polyanthus, primula, Iceland poppies, pansies) spring bulbs. 

Compost clean-up

Anyone who has ever painted or wallpapered knows that nine-tenths of the mahi goes into preparation โ€“ and itโ€™s the same with making the perfect compost. In autumn, especially, itโ€™s important to hot-compost because so much of the material cleared from the mฤra contains weed seeds that require significant heat in order to be destroyed. 

Composting instructions are easy to access, but the subject of assembling the necessary ingredients is seldom discussed. When building a hot compost, itโ€™s essential to gather all your materials ahead of time, and to restrict the gathering of high-nitrogen materials to just two or three consecutive days before building the pile (any more and this nitrogen-rich material will begin to decay before you want it to). 

Assemble the materials in their different piles: browns (carbon-rich materials such as dead leaves, mulched branches and twigs, and organic straw), greens (nitrogen-rich materials such as green manure crops, lawn clippings, freshly cut long grass, mulched green leaves, seaweeds and kitchen scraps), and very high-nitrogen ingredients (if using), such as fresh and aged animal manures. Although itโ€™s not essential to be totally accurate, a compost heats up best when the ratio of carbon to nitrogen materials is 30:1. You will also need on hand a good supply of water, and material to cover the pile (hessian sacks are ideal). Once youโ€™re ready to begin, following the instructions will be fun and easy. 

Fill the larder

Your winter keep-crops have taken four to six months to grow to maturity. Donโ€™t waste them through poor storage. Dry your alliums (onions, shallots and garlics) until there is no sign of moisture left in their tops (especially around their โ€˜necksโ€™. Allow kลซmara, yams (oca), mashua and ulluco (earth gems) to quick-dry in warm shade, turning them to hurry the process. Dry potatoes in a warm, dark, dry place to prevent greening. Sort crops thoroughly so that any that are damaged are separated out and used quickly. Be aware that different keep-crops require different temperatures and humidity levels to keep well, and do your research. Note that some root crops, such as Jerusalem artichokes and yacon, should be left in the ground until required (in very cold regions, cover the ground above the tubers with a layer of straw to prevent freezing). 

Close to home 

Think ahead to frequently used winter flavour boosters, and pot up rooted pieces of herbs that can be moved close to the door for easy access on wet, cold days. Give the rooted pieces a good start by growing them under cloches through autumn.   


Diana Noonan lives in the Catlins where she grows 70 percent of her food using a variety of methods including permaculture food forest to French intensive. 

Sanctity of the soil with Maanu Paul

Maanu Paul who has been a kaitiaki of organic practices his entire life discovers Sue Allison in her new book on inspiring gardeners and gardens of Aotearoa. 

Photography: Juliet Nicholas
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Maanu Paul feels two responsibilities keenly and they are intertwined: to provide food for his whฤnau, and to do it with the utmost respect for Papatลซฤnuku, Mother Earth. 

In a garden by ลŒhope Beach, near Whakatฤne, he grows vegetables and fruit using organic methods rooted in mฤtauranga (Mฤori knowledge), being mindful of his human role as a kaitiaki (guardian). 

Maanu is a community leader and strong advocate for his people. He has chaired the New Zealand Mฤori Council and supported Waitangi Tribunal claims relating to indigenous flora and fauna, the land and the seabed. He has taught in schools and tertiary institutions, has tohunga status in education, and wrote the constitution for Te Waka Kai Ora, the Mฤori National Organics Authority. In 2019, he was made an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for Services to Mฤori. But Maanuโ€™s thoughts are never far from the land, and his hands are happiest when covered in soil. 

โ€œMy father told me that it was the role of our ancestor, Moewhare, to provide food and sustenance for the tribe,โ€ he says. A carving in the Apa-hฤpai-taketake wharenui on the Ngฤti Manawa marae in Murupara depicts Moewhare with a large-eyed dog. โ€œItโ€™s a hunting dog, and itโ€™s got big eyes because it is always looking for food.โ€ 

Maanuโ€™s father grew vegetables in a 16-ha community garden beside his hapลซโ€™s Moewhare wharenui at Waiohau. โ€œMy father and his family would prepare the ground and the people would come and plant their potatoes and other vegetables. He would look after them, and at harvest time they would come with their sleds and carts and take their crops away.โ€ 

Maanu grew up in Murupara, one of 10 children. After his mother died in childbirth when he was seven, he went to live with his paternal grandmother. โ€œMy fatherโ€™s mother taught me how to grow things. She taught me that the soil is like a mother. You must feed and respect her, and she will feed the family.โ€ He learned how to plant and harvest according to the maramataka (lunar calendar) and how to read the landโ€™s signs. 

โ€œI have memories of my father hopping on his horse and riding around the farm looking for the right valley to grow our vegetables. He told me that where the fern is as high as a horse, the land is fat. Ki te tipu rarauhe kia orite ki te hลiho he momona te whenua.  

โ€œWhen he found a good spot, we would cut a fire break around it, then burn it, disc and harrow it, and plant pumpkins, potatoes, watermelon and kamokamo. The fern would come up at same time as our veges, letting in the light and rain and keeping the ground cool.โ€ 

โ€œMy fatherโ€™s mother taught me how to grow things. She taught me that the soil is like a mother. You must feed and respect her, and she will feed the family.โ€ 

When Maanu was sent to live with his motherโ€™s family in Whakatฤne for his high school years, his horticultural education was broadened by his other tupuna. โ€œMy maternal grandmother taught me how to grow food on the coast where there is a different lunar calendar,โ€ he says. The maramataka is interwoven with influences from the sea and wind and seasonal reminders for food gathering from endemic trees. The locals knew that when the kลwhai trees started flowering, it was time to harvest mussels. 

In 1962, Maanu married Gwenda, a teacher and social scientist who had also grown up in Murupara. The couple spent most of their working life and raised their four children in Hamilton, but Whakatฤne always felt like home. In 1975, they had bought a 2-ha piece of family land at ลŒhope Beach that was otherwise going to be taken over by the district council. 

โ€œWe are the tฤngata whenua, the people of the land. We are the land, and the land is us,โ€ says Pembroke Bird, kaumฤtua at Maanuโ€™s tribal Rangitahi marae in Murupara. It is telling that the same word, โ€˜whenuaโ€™, means both land and placenta. โ€œAfter a baby is born, we put the afterbirth back into the land and plant a tree on top. Respect and reverence for the whenua and Papatลซฤnuku is everything. Everyone suffers when there is a disconnection.โ€ 

With the wider family numbering in the hundreds, ownership and rates payment had been complex. Maanuโ€™s solution was to take it over, but in his eyes it still belongs to whฤnau and he sees his role as growing for them just as his father did so many decades earlier at Waiohau. 

In 1990, Maanu and Gwenda moved permanently to ลŒhope Beach. They bought an abandoned kiwifruit orchard that had been wrecked in the 1987 Edgecumbe earthquake, and, with the help of horticulturalist Sandy Scarrow, converted it to an organic venture. Maanu attended field days and listened to other orchardists, but he also applied his own thinking. 

After discovering that leaf-roller caterpillars, a bane of orchardists, were breeding in the shelter belts, he cut down the willows despite being advised not to do so. They never had a problem with the grubs again. To protect the kiwifruit vines from wind damage, Maanu pegged them to the ground, emulating their natural growth habit. 

While orchardists all around were netting their vines and setting off cannons, the Pauls left the birds alone. โ€œThe finches nip off some buds, but not all of them. They literally prune the vines and also eat insect pests,โ€ says Gwenda. โ€œNature has its own way of balancing everything out.โ€ 

They also introduced pigs to the orchard, as Maanuโ€™s father had always done, to clean the land. The animals both rid the soil of the debilitating fungal root disease armillaria and fertilised the vines. 

Not only did the Pauls win the prize for the longest-keeping fruit every year, but their orchard was never affected by the Psa bacterial disease that decimated the industry. โ€œWhen the disease came, we didnโ€™t get it because our plants werenโ€™t stressed,โ€ says Maanu.  

When Maanu started to prepare the land at ลŒhope Beach to grow vegetables, he found the remains of old kลซmara pits and large shellfish middens left by his forebears. But the soil was dry, sandy and deficient in potassium. Over the years, he has enriched it with composted green waste and homemade liquid fertiliser. Fish guts, seaweed and potassium-rich kina are the key ingredients of Maanuโ€™s potent brew, which ferments in a 44-gallon drum by the garden. 

Each vegetable plant is individually cared for. It has its own hole, dug into a small mound with a moat around it. Before planting, the hole is filled with rotted lawn clippings and a bucket of liquid fertiliser. There are no hoses in the garden. Every third day, Maanu carts buckets of fresh water down from the house on the back of his old Massey Ferguson tractor, and each plant gets a 10-litre drink. โ€œBucket-watering gives me a chance to look at the plants.โ€  

They thrive under his scrutiny. Colossal red onions, enormous pumpkins and rhubarb with leaves the size of gunnera grow among lettuces, cucumbers, chillies and tomatoes. Beetroot, kลซmara and other root crops grow fat in the well-fed soils, while beans clamber over teepees made using bamboo poles grown on the property.  

All around are native trees. Pลhutukawa, kahikatea, karaka and kawakawa, which they use to make tea, grow among banana palms, oranges, avocado and fig trees. Apples, persimmons and peaches are abundant, and thereโ€™s not a curly leaf in sight. Flowering penstemon bring the bees, while detrimental insects and caterpillars are deterred with spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves. 

In winter, Maanu covers the beds with a thick layer of lawn clippings, suppressing any weeds and ready to mulch the following yearโ€™s crops. Gwenda and Maanu have 18 mokopuna, an ever-increasing brood of great-grandchildren and large extended families on both sides. Whฤnau are free to help themselves to the bounty of the garden. 

But Maanuโ€™s concern is for more than providing food for his family. It is for future generations. At the heart of mฤtauranga are the principles of tikanga, the physical and metaphysical values brought by the ancestors who island-hopped across Te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa (the Pacific Ocean), adopting and adapting the ways of the people with whom they interacted. โ€œWhen the Pฤkehฤ came, we adopted too many of their ways,โ€ he says. 

Tikanga literally means โ€˜right practicesโ€™, and it is humansโ€™ responsibility as kaitiaki to ensure they are maintained. โ€œThe kaitiaki role is a dynamic one which requires constant monitoringโ€ says Maanu, who decries the economic forces that put โ€˜money-whenuaโ€™ ahead of mana whenua. โ€œWe are paying the price for putting chemicals on our land. Surely we will learn some lessons? We now need to reimpose our way of doing things. We need to go back to the organic way of growing, the Mฤori way of growing that respects the sanctity of the soil.โ€  

This is an edited extract from In the Company of Gardeners by Sue Allison, photography by Juliet Nicholas (Penguin Random House, $55).